Maybe a little of both — though locals bristled at a recent article in Bon Appetit magazine that compared Indy's dining scene to Brooklyn's hipster vibe.
Sure, there's old-school Indianapolis: massive stone monuments that swallow blocks of downtown, divine corned beef sandwiches at Shapiro's and shrimp cocktail with the world's hottest horseradish at St. Elmo's.
At Black Market's communal tables, adventurous palates will enjoy roasted marrow bones and beef tongue cocktail, while more conventional diners can have roasted half chicken and braised lamb shoulder.
The massive neoclassical Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, a symbol of the city, honors soldiers from the Civil War and other conflicts before World War I. The nearby Indianapolis War Memorial honors World War I veterans.
Outdoor art includes "Funky Bones," a giant skeleton made from benches that was featured in the book "The Fault in Our Stars," written by Indy-born John Green; and "Park of the Laments," a hauntingly serene spot with stone walls, a tunnel and grassy walled field.
The Children's Museum of Indianapolis offers immersive, interactive exhibits on everything from dinosaurs to ancient Egypt and contemporary China.
Downtown offers many dining options and attractions, but if you're heading to the art museum, Speedway or far-flung funky neighborhoods, you'll need wheels.
Near the mural, there's the Ball & Biscuit (get the cocktail with the egg white!), Stout's Footwear (founded in 1886) and "Ann Dancing," a hypnotic animated neon sculpture.
At the other end of Mass Ave, the Black Market restaurant faces Indy Reads Books, an independent bookstore that sells mostly donated used books to support a literacy program.
