Large pants are making a fast and furious comeback. The denim designer’s denim designer is steering the trend his direction.
Andrew Chen cofounded the IYKYK denim brand 3sixteen 21 years ago, and since then, an ever-growing corps of denim heads and fit-getters have been rocking the brand’s classic and straight cuts. This season, Chen and co are launching a new silhouette, the vaunted “RS,” that’s been five years in the making.
“RS is our most relaxed jean cut yet and has been really well received,” Chen reports.
That’s a diplomatic way of saying the bigger pants are having a moment and that 3sixteen is, naturally, going to be a part of that moment. Eager to understand why men are buying bigger pants, SPY grabbed Chen by his Japanese selvedge belt loop to talk shop and shopping.
You guys don’t drop new fits every day and 3sixteen hasn’t been playing the BIG JEANS game so the RS is a new look. How is it going?
For context, it’s probably been five years since we developed something new. That’s because we really want to make sure that when we add something to our core collection, the silhouette has longevity.
I think we make a lot of really beautiful collection items every spring and fall, but… launching a new fit that customers are loving is very rewarding.
So, good news on that front. Congratulations. Now, let’s step back from 3sixteen for just a second to talk about taste. Let’s say you have to rep a different brand. Who do you lace up for?
I’m trying to think of what would benefit me the most. It’d be pretty cool to rep Mercedes-Benz – ever since my mom splurged and bought a C230K back in 1999, I’ve loved their design ethos and approach to making cars. She’s since passed that car down to me so it is thankfully still in the family. I don’t know what I would get to do as an MB spokesperson for a day; maybe it could include some track time in a GT-63S. Bang my line, Mercedes.
Was a car your first big purchase?
My first car was a 2000 Civic Si in Electron Blue Pearl. I loved that car and worked on it in my good friend’s garage for two years – first learning how to change the oil and then moving on to replacing the suspension, bolt-on performance upgrades, all that stuff.
On weekends, we’d drive out to the Chicago Stockyards late at night to watch illegal street racing – once the cops came we would all run to our cars and then drive to the next spot. I remember the weekend that The Fast & The Furious came out, we all ripped out to the movie theater and the parking lot was basically the movie.
Tell us about a more recent splurge.
A made-to-measure Waverly suit from J. Mueser in a really beautiful navy wool. I know very little about tailored clothing so my good friend Jeremy Kirkland, who hosts a fashion podcast called Blamo!, kindly accompanied me and helped guide the process. Going in for regular fittings and seeing the suit come together gave me a deep appreciation for the attention Jake and his team bring to what they do.
You’re in your mid-40s, how have you smartened up as a shopper?
I have made enough foolish purchases over the years to be able to talk myself out of things that will not get proper wear. I was recently thinking about a pair of Rick Owens Vintage High Sneaks and while I loved how they looked and felt on foot, the lack of a side zip kept bothering me because I knew it would be a whole task to put them on each time. So I passed. For now.
What will we never catch you spending money on?
Socks and underwear; Uniqlo has suited me just fine thus far.
What items do you carry with you every day?
Outside of the essentials (phone/keys/wallet), I cannot leave the house without my Model 10 bracelet from Good Art; it’s my favorite piece of jewelry. I always carry an Anker power bank and Soundcore X10 headphones. A bottle of water if I remember.
Ever shoplifted?
When I was really little I stole one single solitary chain link from the hardware store. It was sitting on a shelf and I thought it was cool so I put it in my pocket. When we got home my dad saw me fidgeting with it and freaked out that I had stolen it and walked it right back to the store. I haven’t stolen anything since.
Final question: Based on the ads the algo feeds you, who does the internet think you are, and is it right?
I took up running two years ago and reels about stretching and strength training often catch my eye, so I am now getting ads for hip hooks, hamstring stretch contraptions, neck traction devices, calf ramps, you name it – basically old man stuff. The internet knows all.
