Who knows, maybe you'll even spot a Real Housewife or two. After all, nothing pairs quite like a glass of Long Island wine and a healthy dose of reality TV drama.
Ah, the remarkable journey of American winemaking, a path that led from the depths of mass-produced jug wines to the soaring heights of international recognition in a remarkably short span.
The 1960s and 70s witnessed American wine being dismissed as a mere joke, overshadowed by the prestige of French viticulture. However, the 1976 Paris Tasting, a moment that would alter the course of history, was not just a blind tasting but a seismic shift in the perception of American wines. It stunned the world, propelling them to the forefront and marking a significant turning point in the history of American winemaking.
Picture this: Chateau Montelena, Napa Chardonnay 1973 —a crisp, elegant white— triumphing over the finest French Chardonnays in a blind tasting. And then, as if to add insult to injury, Stags Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1973, a bold, robust red besting the legendary Bordeaux. With their centuries-old winemaking traditions, the French were left reeling, forced to acknowledge that perhaps, just perhaps, they weren’t the only ones who knew a thing or two about making great wine.
Yet, this was not merely a victory over France’s formidable wine snobbery. It was a testament to American pride, ingenuity, and audacity. Visionaries like Robert Mondavi and Mike Grgich, true pioneers, dared to envision crafting world-class wines on American soil, and their visions materialized.
They took inspiration from the French winemaking tradition and embraced the concept of terroir—soil, slope, sun, and microclimate, showing that they could nurture vines and produce wines that could rival the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy. This was a revolution in American winemaking, a swift and dramatic transformation from ordinary to extraordinary.
As we creep our bus over the Long Island Expressway towards wine country, I’ll try to tie this all together. Our focus is the North and South Forks of Long Island, a region that has emerged as a symbol of daring and innovation in American winemaking, much akin to Napa in the 1970s.
Here, amidst the salt air, relentless winds, and traffic jams that would make a New York cabbie blush, a new generation of winemakers is making its mark. They are drawing on lessons learned from France to California, creating wines that are distinctly Long Island. The reds here lean towards more earthy notes to accompany the red and black fruit, all backed up with vibrant acidity and tannins, as compared to their California counterparts that, because of hotter temperatures, tend to be more fruit-forward with more weight on the palate.
First, if you plan a trip to Long Island wine country in the summer or fall, pack some patience with your corkscrew. Because getting there is half the battle, picture this: miles of idyllic countryside dotted with vineyards, and brake lights usually caused by deviously placed stoplights on two-lane country roads.
Knowing the shortcuts through the farmlands and vineyards was a luxury of the 1990s. Now, with GPS mapping, they’ve just become long cuts.
What’s truly remarkable is how far along Long Island wines have gone in such a short time. Since Hargrave planted the first vines in 1973 winemakers have been zeroing in on the varietals that thrive in the region’s unique terroir—Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and my favorite, Cabernet Franc being some of the best.
These wines, with their distinct character and flavor profiles, are a testament to the unique terroir of Long Island. Sure, you might have to endure a few Range Rovers cutting you off on the way to the tasting room, but once you’re sipping on a glass of Lieb Cellars Estate Merlot or Cab Franc, you’ll forget all about the traffic woes.
After Lieb Cellars, go over to Pellegrini Vineyards, where you will most likely run into my old friend and manager of the vineyard, John. He will guide you through tasting their many excellent wines and perhaps their very limited Vintner’s Pride Reserve Dessert Wine. There is a little secret here: if go during the winter months, John may just take you down into the wine cellar to do some barrel-tasting with his trusty wine thief.
Of course, no trip to Long Island wine country would be complete without a visit to the South Fork—a region known for its sprawling estates, polo matches, and, you guessed it, traffic. But if you can brave the bumper-to-bumper madness, you’ll find some exceptional wines waiting for you. Make your way to Wolffer Estates, where you can sip summer in a Bottle Rose amongst the vines at the palatial Tuscan-style main tasting and production house. One last vineyard to visit is Channing Daughters, which is right down the road. The winemakers here are really pushing the envelope when it comes to growing and vinifying funky varietals like Dornfelder, Muscatel Ottonel, Tocai Friulano to name a few that are sure to challenge your palate and up your wine game.
Who knows, maybe you’ll even spot a Real Housewife or two. After all, nothing pairs quite like a glass of Long Island wine and a healthy dose of reality TV drama.
Visit me at Maximum Beverage, West Hartford, to find Lieb Cellars Cab Franc, Pelligrini Chardonnay, North Fork Merlot and Wolffer Estate Vineyard Summer In A Bottle Rosé.
Our recipe this week is with Mike Voight, chef/partner of Vinted Wine Bar in West Hartford where they have over 70 wines available by the glass. Chef Mike has had a long and successful culinary career that has led him to cook at high-end restaurants in both Boston and New York City. He will collaborate with me on my wine columns moving forward, providing a recipe that is consistent with the wine region we discuss.
2 6 ounce pieces of fish
Celeriac puree:
1 medium Spanish onion diced
2 cloves garlic thinly sliced
1 small celeriac diced
2 cups half and half
To taste Salt, black peppercorn In
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup white wine
1 cup fiddleheads
1 bunch of dandelion greens
1 teaspoon garlic minced
1 tablespoon butter
Celeriac is a root vegetable found year-round in grocery stores. It’s the root of celery, and when cooked, it provides a silky texture. In a medium-sized pot, combine all your vegetables and seasoning, along with your butter, and cook until tender. Once your pot starts to brown, deglaze (pour) your dry white wine in. Add your half and half and simmer until cooked through. Puree in a blender and reserve.
Vegetables: In a medium sauté pan, add butter and garlic and cook for two minutes. Add your fiddleheads until tender. Add your greens, and you’re done. Add salt as needed.
Fish: Medium heat sauté pan with blended oil – when the pan is hot add your fish skin side up and cook until the edges start to brown. Moving your fish will help even cooking, flip when your first side is golden brown and remove from heat, will take about 3 minutes to cook through before serving. Squeeze lemon juice and, if desired, a little butter.
This recipe is super seasonal but can be interchanged with like ingredients for year-round fun. Blackfish has a spring season in Long Island Sound but can be interchanged with fluke, or black bass as well as vegetables and greens that can be changed for any hearty greens in season.
Johnny Noakes is Sommelier/general manager of Maximum Beverage, West Hartford, on Instagram/X @Maximumbev and @JohnnyNoakes and YouTube Channel @MaximumBeverageCT; Chef Mike is of Vinted Wine Bar & Restaurant, West Hartford
