Public School 818, XOC Tequila Grill, Unwind Wine Bar, Roadside Taco and Mercado Cahuenga are where to go when a drink is called for, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.
Like so many of us, I suffer from a terminal case of FOMO — Fear of Missing Out. As a result, when I take a break during the day, it’s to flip on one of the news channels to find out what crises afflicted our long-suffering world while I was away coming up with some fresh metaphors and similes about sushi and hamburgers.
I am rarely disappointed; there’s always a crisis du jour. Which will then occupy much of the rest of my day, as I check with increasing obsessiveness on the latest developments. It’s not for nothing that CNN seemingly begins every hour with the words “Breaking News”! Like one of Pavlov’s Dogs, I salivate at the thought that “something happened.”
Like many of us, after too much “Breaking News,” the ancient words — or are they are prayer? — rise in my consciousness: “I need a drink!”
I don’t really need a drink, I rarely do. But still, it seems like a rational response to a day of growing headline misery, and gloom and doom everywhere I look. And, after the annus horribilis of 2020 — what fun! — that segued into 2021 and now 2022, it’s possible this annum will beat both of them. It’s an election year, after all. So, a drink really will be called for.
I’m a simple man, with simple tastes. As a rule, that drink of choice will be a beer, which is really all I want or need. If wine is being served, a glass will do. But if I’m in a situation where a mixed drink is called for, I do have my druthers when it comes to cocktails — I like clean and simple. For me, a classic gin martini, with a couple of olives, is drink enough, the very essence of perfection.
But then, I’m also obsessed with the writings of P.G. Wodehouse and, consequently, with the drinking habits of upper-class British twits from a century ago. Back then, the idle rich seemed to spend all their time instructing their version of Jeeves to make a cocktail for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Also, all the hours in between and after.
Had Alcoholics Anonymous existed back then, it would have done land office business among the fox hunting, golfing and private clubbing crowd.
As a food and (occasionally) drink writer, I’m also fascinated with the cocktails that have come and gone, from one decade to another. I remember well the fishpond-sized drinks at Trader Vic’s, served for two or four, with long straws so you didn’t fall in and drown. I remember a joint over on Fairfax called Lola’s, with a bar in the front and another in the back, that made more than 100 margaritas — most of which were silly drinks, flavored like something you’d find at Baskin-Robbins.
These days, it’s with more than a bit of fascination that I study the cocktail lists at our trendier destinations, where the mixed drinks are made with ingredients so obscure that, without a good Google connection, I’d have no idea what I was drinking. Even the beer lists have gone wackadoodle.
So, where do I enjoy bending an elbow hereabouts? The options are many, but these are some of my favorites … and the most cheerfully obscure:
15300 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; 818-728-9818, www.psontap.com
Considering how broad the possibilities are for a goofy school theme, Public School 818 is actually pretty subdued. Servers aren’t dressed in uniforms like students at parochial school, the bartenders are neither teachers nor principals, there’s no fire drill, and you don’t have to take mid-terms before being served your meal. You also don’t sit at small desks with ink wells and spaces underneath for book storage. No one’s teaching math on the big screens. And they don’t serve chipped beef on toast as a menu option.
Aside from the name, the most schoolish elements at PS 818 are the menus, which are printed to look like the sort of black-and-white mottled composition books we all grew up with, and a section of the extensive beer list headed “Study Group” (large sized bottles to “split with friends”).
The place could just as easily have been named Harry’s Bar & Grill, for what PS 818 is, is a classic gastropub that hits all the right gastropub notes, from exotic mixology, to small production wines, craft brews — and, of course, tasty smallish dishes that go well with adult beverages.
Unlike any public school I’ve ever been to, more than half the menu is dedicated to beer — and half of those are on draft. They’re not especially obscure, with a fair number of the craft names we’ve come to know well, with brief annotation included, for those who may want to know what the heck it is they’re drinking.
Thus, the very popular Mama’s Little Yella Pils from Oskar Blues’ Brewery in Longmont, Colorado, is a “Czech style Pilsner that pours a clean golden hue with mild spicy-floral hops.” The Blue House Citra Pale Ale from El Segundo Brewing Co. in the South Bay is a “Double dry hopped Pale Ale with citrus fruitiness and restrained bitterness.”
Should you be in need of something a bit stronger, after a tough day in the cubicle farm, the bartenders do a full range of classic cocktails, along with oddities with names like Easy A that involves whiskey, banana liqueur and cinnamon; and The Earl of Juniper that calls for Earl Grey infused gin, lavender and lemon.
I lean more toward the Albarino, a flinty, crispy, dry white from Rias Baixas in Spain. I don’t do sweet beverages.
Not surprisingly, there are ahi tuna tacos, and a nutty mac and cheese made with emmental and cheddar cheeses, kale and chorizo. Is there quinoa? Of course there is — served in a salad with roasted chicken, arugula and feta. Is there a kale Caesar salad? Check. You can get it tricked up with chicken or salmon as well. (Does anyone do an old school Caesar anymore? I’m beginning to think not.)
There also are pizzas, including a Frito Pie equivalent. There’s a big burger, and a big order of fried chicken with cornbread waffles. Sides include a kale and Brussels sprouts slaw, a red quinoa salad, and a cheesy-bacon-Brussels “mush.”
Nothing is served in a brown paper bag. Except for the French fries. And in this case, the bag absorbs the grease. A good lesson for others.
The Village at Westfield Topanga, 6316 N. Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills; 818-992-7930, www.xoctequilagrill.com
Though I can’t guarantee my experience at XOC, a pattern does seem to have emerged. If you want to sit inside, especially at the tables in the back, there isn’t much of a problem. If you want to sit at the bar, or the lounge tables adjacent to the bar, things get busy, especially on weekends, and when there are big games to be watched on the big screens. But if you want to sit on the outside patio, a wait is almost guaranteed.
Tout le monde wants to sit out there — and for good reason. On even the hottest days, there are cooling breezes come the evening. And, as I said, the parade is impressive; shoppers apparently do like to promenade. They also like to slide into a nice cold beverage on a hot day.
There are about 50 tequilas on the list, with the selection broken into blanco, reposado, anejo and reservas; if you’re living large, there’s a shot of Patron Grand Burdeos for $75. The tequila flights are an admirable bargain, a trio going for $19, along with a shot of house-made sangrita and a plate of lime wedges.
Myself, I go for the micheladas — flavored beer drinks, with your choice of brew (mostly Mexican) mixed with lime juice, with Worcestershire and Tabasco, or with sangrita and lime. It’s refreshing, it goes down easy, and it’s a deal.
Oh, and for those in need of something mixed, there’s a wide variety of margaritas, and other tequila drinks, including both an Old Fashioned made with mezcal, and a Moscow Mule made with tequila. The place is true to its name. And that name also includes the word “grill.”
Indeed, “grill” is the dominant theme here, for the menu is long and complex, almost encyclopedic in its depth. There’s an opening page that describes (in very small type) the roots of Mexican cooking in Mayan cuisine, which gave us maize, tomatoes, tomatillos, cocoa, beans, avocados, chiles and more. We’re told XOC was a Mayan queen. And the restaurant’s décor echoes the Mayan pyramids and open-air markets.
The menu says, “Dare to explore.” And so, we do. And what we come up with is a nifty platter of crispy tostaditos the size of Ritz crackers, topped with ceviche, shrimp and ahi, with guacamole on the side. There’s a Caesar salad prepared tableside, in the style of Caesar Cardini of Tijuana. There’s a fine mole poblano from Oaxaca, a dish with deep Mayan roots, and a platter of cochinita pork from the Yucatan.
There’s also a whole section of ceviches — and yes, I know they come from Peru, but it’s good to have them anyway. Along with ceviche, there’s an unexpectedly large assortment of seafood dishes, though I’m not at all sure that either salmon or mahi mahi were known to the Mayans.
19100 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana; 818-600-8784, www.unwind-restaurant.com
Driving into the mini-mall at the corner of Ventura Boulevard and Donna Avenue in Tarzana, you may wonder if you’ve come to the wrong address. What you’ll see is an eclectic assortment of purveyors of mini-mall services. There’s an IHOP in front, along with Zen Cleanse, Studio 41 salon, Amber T Nails and a poke/sushi shop called Pokemotto.
But where’s Unwind, a wine bar with a menu of quirky dishes with which to…unwind? Look at the elbow of this L-shaped mall, and you’ll notice a sign directing you to an easy-to-miss staircase, which you take up to the door into a well-hidden, dark and moody destination with a long bar, and sundry tables.
There’s a wine list that’s notable for vineyards you’ve very likely never heard of before. This is not a selection of beverages that follow the path of high-profile wineries with names that have become synonymous with by-the-glass options, familiar Chardonnays and Cabs. Wines that we’ve come to know well over the years, to trust, and to even love.
At Unwind, they challenge you to try a vineyard, or a grape, you haven’t before, at prices that are reasonable in the current market. And by “reasonable,” these days I mean in the teens.
I once spent a week up in the Santa Ynez wine growing region. And was taken aback to find so many wines — local wines — going for well over $20 a glass. Go to any “nicer” restaurant here in SoCal, and you can expect the same; my wife reported going to a local trendy where by-the-glass wines began at $25…and went way up from there.
Not to sound really old, but those are prices we used to pay by the bottle! Which is why it did my heart good to see a glass of Lincourt Chardonnay from the Santa Rita Hills going for $12, and a Kie Hoang Cabernet from Napa costing $16 for the glass. Did I know either of those wineries? Not at all. But I do now.
And though this is not Screaming Eagle or Chateau Lafite, they’re both a good deal for the money. And in these hard times, with gas approaching $5 a gallon (and sometimes passing that line in the sand!), let us be grateful for anything that’s affordable.
As I said, the wine list is rich with tastes those of us who are casual tipplers aren’t familiar with. Sauvignon Blanc from Kim Crawford in Marlboro, New Zealand. A grape called Nascetta Doc from Daniele Conterno in Langhe, Italy. (It’s a 19th century grape that’s been long forgotten till recently!) The wonderfully named Heroic Red Blend from Leer in Contra Costa County. (At $12 a glass, how can you resist?) The Garnacha Nativa from the Care Winery in Spain.
A very happy evening can be spent — yes! — unwinding over this grape juice, described with passion by the affable bartender. I love sitting at bars, and chatting with the pourers. They approach their craft with passion. Especially when the only cocktails they make with a bestiary of eccentric ingredients are classics created with Soju. Margaritas and Mimosas are it. Fun!
The beer selection here is functional, but certainly not outré — Blue Moon, Stella Artois, Corona, Modelo. (Nothing on draft, yet. They say soon.) The food options, on the other hand, are all over the map — unexpected, eccentric and properly tasty to match the wines. Or, at least, as much as wines from all over the world can be matched with dishes from all over the map.
It’s a menu that begins with the heading “Tapas” — though few of these “tapas” are found at traditional Spanish tapas bar. There are, for instance, egg rolls, described as “Vietnamese style,” filled with either pork or tofu. There are crispy chicken croquettes topped with (yes!) Spanish serrano ham — right next to French onion soups, clams in white wine sauce and tuna tartare.
Probably the most tapas-esque dish is the “Cutting Board” of sundry cheeses, cured meats, olives and…quince jam and honeycomb? Odd…but tasty.
There’s a section of “chef’s specials” and of entrees, which could have been combined into one section, but weren’t. The specials run to pan-seared salmon, slow-baked short ribs, beef or chicken pho on Thursdays and Saturdays…and Korean barbecue on the same days.
Friday would seem to be good day to offer specials as well. But I guess whoever does the cooking works limited days. And it’s decidedly odd to find pho and Korean barbecue at a wine shop — these are beer dishes, no question. But then, at Unwind, there are no real rules
10628 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; 323-284-2400, www.roadsidetaco.com
The road Roadside is on the side of is Ventura Boulevard — though it’s easy to drive by the high fence that surrounds the space and not notice it, as you wonder where the well-concealed freeway on-ramps could possibly be.
It used to be home to a would-be trendy called Xen Lounge, a late-night hang whose business statement informs us that, “Xen is a celebration of life. Industry professionals, celebrities and locals love to taste laugh and unwind at Xen Lounge.”
Roadside doesn’t have a statement of purpose; it just is. And what it is, is a non-stop party. On weekends, there can be a bit of a wait to get it. And once you are in, and nab a table, the waits have just begun. There’s a line for the counter where you order your food. There’s a line for the counters where you order your drinks.
In this case, surprisingly, strikingly, amazingly…waiting on the lines is…okay. These are not the lines at LAX, where the overwhelming sense is cattle on their way to the slaughter. The music is loud, friends schmooze and schmingle everywhere, happy is the dominant motif. I’m not entirely sure how they do it; maybe there’s something that exudes from the plantings that line the outside dining area wall. And do note: Outside is what Roadside all about.
I suppose there’s some sort of roof covering and heating units that roll out when our weather turns chill and wet. But for the most part, with summer running from March to November (or thereabouts), Roadside is a warmly cool destination all year round.
It’s also a notable hot spot in which to bend the old elbow; the cocktails outnumber the dishes, which works just fine in the party vibe. With an After Work Roadside Marg in hand, the world is a much rosier place. And the roar of the nearby Hollywood Freeway fades into just white noise.
There are numerous margaritas, made with both tequila, and mezcal — which is essential tequila but without very good manners; where tequila raves, mezcal rants. They both get the job done in the end.
And then, there’s the madcap world of Specialty Cocktails, which range in exoticism from “sounds tasty” to “say what?” On the more rational edge is the Bloody Maria, made with “assorted peppers” and tequila, a fine drink for those of us with a taste for the spicy side of the street.
On the other hand, drinks like Slice of Heaven push the edge of what’s properly in a cocktail. It’s described as a mix of “homemade cinnamon syrup, pineapple amaro, apple/pear liquor, cherry bark vanilla bitters and La Adelita Blanco tequila.” Aside from the tequila…what is that stuff? And does it really matter? If you’re in the mood, it’s there to keep the mixologists well occupied.
Once seated, with a drink in hand, and a chip to chew on, life feels very good at Roadside. This is a Roadside you want to linger at, where the vibe sets you free from the stress of the day, and of city life. Xen was pushing for “industry professionals and celebrities.” Roadside is for the rest of us — Roadside rocks, Roadside rolls.
3413 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Studio City/Hollywood; 323-512-2500, www.cocinasycalaveras.com
There’s a fondness for the joyously morbid icons of Día de los Muertos at the restaurants of Jesse Gomez’s Cocinas y Calaveras group. You’ll find murals of happily grinning death heads at Yxta Cocina Mexicana in downtown L.A., at Mercado in Santa Monica and now at Mercado in Pasadena, which sits in a space occupied for many years by the Smith Brothers, who filled it first with Crocodile Café, then Café 140 South, and more recently SECO — all of which were, more or less, the same restaurant.
By comparison, Mercado is very much not the same restaurant. Even in the midst of the numerous other Mexican restaurants in town, it stands out — and not just because of the happy skulls that appear adjacent to the kitchen and on the restaurant’s coasters. (To me, they say, “Drink up! Life is short.”)
This is a restaurant where cauliflower is roasted with chile morita marinade and pineapple, where cucumber salad is flavored with spicy queso anejo and spicy pepitas, and where the pork is sourced from Salmon Creek Farm in Twin Falls, Idaho.
The beer list includes 137 Hawking Wheat Ale from Guadalajara, and Border Psycho La Perversa IPA from Tijuana. You want strawberry Fanta, they got it.
The dishes used are by Heath Ceramics, the menu proudly tells us so. The bar is long and busy; the dining rooms are spacious and busy. For a restaurant with the logo of a smiling death’s head, the place doesn’t lie down on the job. No dead wood here.
If you’re here to bend an elbow, there’s much elbow bending to be done. There are a dozen mezcals, and several dozen tequilas. There’s a margarita made with fresh hibiscus, a lovely touch, both tasty and aromatic. I like the twist that cucumber gives to the Spicy Cucumber Margarita, a gin ingredient used in a tequila drink.
There are beers in bottles from Mexico, which is standard, and beer on draft from Mexico, which isn’t. There’s Mexican Coke and Mexican Sprite, both made with real sugar — a big deal these days.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.
