CONSIDERING using retinol but don’t know where to start? This is Beauty Editor Tara Ledden’s cheat sheet.
Happy New Year! It truly feels like the last six weeks were a test – of my social battery, my patience, my ability to function on four hours’ sleep a night – so I’m breathing a huge sigh of relief that I can hide at home for a few weeks, while every man and his dog are doing Veganuary/Dry January/insert joy-depriving fresh start here.
While I usually use this column each year to set some beauty-related goals for the next 12 months, I’ve only managed to come up with one so far – start using retinol – the most well known, and well researched, derivative of vitamin A when it comes to skincare.
I know, I’m so late to the game, but the danger of “retinol uglies” (the possible side effects, which include breakouts, dry and sensitive skin) have put me off this far.
I’ve done lots of research though, and I’m pretty confident that I now know the best ways to stop the worst-case scenario.
Now I’m armed with all that info, I wouldn’t be doing my job if I didn’t share it with you, so buckle in!
The main benefit of over-the-counter retinoids is their skin-renewing capabilities – think reduced fine lines, smoother skin, less pigmentation – which generally makes them more suited to older skin, especially given how powerful an ingredient it is.
Most dermatologists I’ve spoken to cite 30 as the best age to start, although if you have robust skin or acne, it can be used sooner.
Hydration is your best friend, both inside and out. Drink lots of water, turn the central heating down, and ply your skin with moisture-boosting hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides and peptides to mitigate the drying effects of retinoids.
If you have extremely sensitive or reactive skin, you can use a moisturiser or hydrating serum on clean skin before your retinoid of choice to help reduce the potency; otherwise, apply it afterwards.
Dermatologist and skincare enthusiast Andrea Suarez - known as Dr Dray - revealed why you should wear suncream.
The one thing you can do that will make the biggest difference – and this matters for all ages – is protecting your skin from the sun, Andrea stressed.
“The vast majority of external aging is due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation,” she continued, not because you’re “not using some jazzy serum or layering 90 different things on your face everyday”.
“If you’re not doing in your 20s, get on that now.”
But she said the use of sun cream alone doesn’t go far enough. Andrea urged that you also wear sun-protective clothing like broad-brimmed hats and long sleeves, on top of not staying out too long in the sun.
Doing this over your lifetime – and all year, not just during the summer or on sunny days – “will reduce the visible signs of photoageing”, Andrea said.
Those are wrinkles, muddled pigmentation and sagging skin.
Once you wash your face in the morning, pile on the nourishing products, too.
The golden rule is that less is more. Less product – a pea-sized amount should cover your whole face, using more won’t make it work faster – and less frequently.
Start with one night a week, then after a few weeks, once you know your skin is tolerating it, scale up to twice a week for a few more weeks and so on.
Don’t be disheartened if your skin can only handle it every other night, you’ll still be reaping the rewards and it’s better to use it consistently over a longer period than ramp it up and have to take a break because your skin reacts.
Avoid sensitive areas, like around your eyes and lips, as that’s almost guaranteed to cause problems, and our skin is porous so enough of the product will creep towards both when applied further away.
If you’re impatient, retinal works faster than retinol – yes, one letter makes all the difference.
Both have to convert into retinoic acid before unleashing their skincare benefits, and the former is one step further in that process, which many dermatologists I’ve spoken to mean it’s also kinder to skin, and better tolerated by those of us with sensitive complexions.
You’ve swotted up, so now it’s time to shop – all of the below are great for beginners.
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion, £15.20
The Ordinary put active ingredients on the map, so it’s no surprise that the brand consistently makes some of the best and affordable skincare, such as The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion, £15.20.
It made my skin look brighter from the first use – but beware, it does stain, so let it dry before getting into bed if you’ve got white pillowcases.
Byoma Sensitive Retinol Oil, £18
Byoma Sensitive Retinol Oil, £18, is another great, accessible option, with the skin-sloughing retinol buffered by hydrating squalane. Because of the oil base, it’s best for dry skin – avoid if you’re acne-prone.
Skin Rocks Retinoid 1 Vitamin A Face Serum, £65
Created by skincare Queen Caroline Hirons, Skin Rocks Retinoid 1 Vitamin A Face Serum, £65, is as good as you’d hope.
What she doesn’t know about skincare isn’t worth knowing – and that extends to the formulations of the products in her Skin Rocks brand.
Kate Somerville Mega-A Skin Transforming Serum, £72
There’s even a handy outline on the lid so you can be sure you’re applying the right amount. The lotion texture of Kate Somerville Mega-A Skin Transforming Serum, £72, makes it slightly more moisturising than a serum, and easier to control where you’re applying it.
Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum, £32,
I noticed my skin was smoother after a couple of weeks, without any hint of dryness or irritation. Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum, £32, is the one I’ve chosen to stick with for the foreseeable.
I love every product I’ve tried from the brand, and this is no different.
It has a gel consistency, which sinks in quickly and layers well with thicker moisturisers – I’ve yet to find a fault.
Paula’s Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturiser SPF50, £46
Whichever you choose, from now on, SPF is your BFF – retinol makes skin more susceptible to sun damage, so it’s imperative to protect it every day.
Paula’s Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturiser SPF50, £46, is my current favourite. Here’s to great skin days!
