TO steal a line from local resident William Wordsworth’s most famous poem, “I cycled slowly through the clouds”.
In fact, were the 18th-century poet still alive, he would have overtaken me on foot as I wrestled my bike up a 30 per cent climb during one of the UK’s hardest cycle events.
But the Lake District is not just for masochists in Lycra. Come for the event and stay to put your feet up after.
We came at the perfect time of year. Not only was it just the seventh dry day of the year, the Northern Lights were raging at the end of their 11-year cycle, providing night hawks with an extraordinary display. May never looked so beautiful.
We were based at Grasmere where Wordsworth is buried and which he described as “the fairest place on earth”. He wasn’t wrong.
The village has a daffodil walk in honour of him, the Rydal caves, a gentle riverside path if the nearby mountains are too strenuous, dozens of hotels, restaurants and it is the only place to get the Grasmere gingerbread, dubbed the best in the world.
The Lakes is famed for the great outdoors – perfect for walking, climbing, cycling, wild swimming, canoeing and aerial pursuits too. As we arrived a parascender swooped overhead.
Even when driving, cycling or just mooching around there is a delight round every corner.
Better than Lake Garda, said my well-travelled cycling buddy.
With breath-taking views, a boutique hotel, a cosy inn or ice-cream parlour seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Or you can just sit and contemplate life on a bench by a slow-moving brook while the sun warms your body and soul. Way too much to do for just a week.
The local tourist board Visit Lake District and Cumbria has information on everything to keep you occupied, fed and watered.
Our main purpose for heading here was to tackle the Fred Whitton Challenge.
Named after local rider Fred, who died of cancer in 1998, it is considered the UK’s hardest cycle challenge.
This was its 25th anniversary and it has so far raised £2million for charity.
What makes the course so hard are the ten stupidly steep climbs, including the notorious Hardknott Pass, which has sections of 30 per cent. I’m pretty sure my car wouldn’t make it up there.
But what really makes the event so special is that seemingly half of Cumbria come out to support the riders.
Not only at every summit but almost every junction we were greeted by cow bells, claps and cheers.
We stayed at The Swan, on the edge of Grasmere, one of the Lake’s oldest pubs, dating back to the 1650s.
It is the former local of Wordsworth, whose (reputed) chair can still be seen in the pub.
It has been recently renovated with airy rooms, flat-screen TVs and modern bathrooms.
The kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinners, and the local Grasmere Gold ale is a winner.
Next time I’ll leave the bike and soak it all in.
STAYING THERE: Double rooms at The Swan from £139 per night B&B.
See inncollectiongroup.com.
MORE INFO: For the Lakes see visitlakedistrict.com and for the 2025 event see fredwhittonchallenge.co.uk.
