THE phrase “it’s what’s underneath that counts” definitely applies when it comes to foundation.
“Primers smooth out fine lines and blur wrinkles,” explains Jane Richardson, global artistry director at Nars.
“If you’ve done the right skin prep – cleanse, tone, moisturise – a primer provides the perfect base for a camera-ready, non-cakey foundation,” says make-up artist Lee Pycroft.
It’s now possible to choose a primer according to your skin type, too, meaning you can tailor it to the finish you want while reaping the skincare benefits at the same time.
“Consider investing in more than one type,” advises Jane. “Your skin isn’t the same all over your face, so different skin textures may need a different formula.
For example, you could use a pore-refining primer on your T-zone and a smoothing, protecting one around the eyes and on your cheeks.”
We love Topshop Longwear Illuminating Primer In Out All Night, £14, for moisturising to the max – it’s pretty much like shining the most flattering of lightbulbs on to your skin – while Lancôme Prep & Hydrate Illuminating Make-up Primer 24H Hydration, £28, is a safe bet for smoothing out your complexion and adding radiance.
The first step to a smooth, flawless foundation look is to keep skin hydrated.
“Women often focus on de-greasing their skin even if it isn’t oily, which then dehydrates it and makes foundation look cakey,” says Jane.
For a photo-ready complexion, choose a liquid foundation with full coverage.
“Apply less than you think,” she says. “Start in the middle of your face and blend out to the sides for a softer look.
However you have applied it, finish with your fingertips – the warmth of them, along with the pressure, will work to erase any smear marks and create a smoother, cake-free finish.”
Clinique Even Better Refresh Hydrating And Repairing Makeup, £30, provides brilliant coverage and contains gently exfoliating salicylic acid to help brighten and plump skin.
Plus it doesn’t sit in the creases of your face, so it’s pretty much undetectable.
Laura Mercier Flawless Lumière Radiance-Perfecting Foundation, £36, contains pearlescent properties, plus vitamin C to brighten and light-reflecting powders to create a blurred, soft-focus finish.
Uneven skin tone, dark circles and acne can get in the way of an airbrushed effect.
While they’re usually fixable with concealer or brightener, make sure you know the difference between the two, as it’s easy to spot mistakes with HD make-up.
“Brightener is less opaque and lighter in finish than concealer,” explains Jane.
“Use it after base where you need a lift – usually on the inner and outer corners of the eyes.
Concealer has more pigment, meaning it’s useful for covering dark circles and blemishes.”
Hate it when your concealer sits in fine lines? “Use a large blending brush to buff the concealer into each area for a seamless look, or push the product into your pores and fine lines with your fingers.”
Giorgio Armani Power Fabric Concealer, £32, contains three oils that create a lightweight texture, making it easier to blend, while Givenchy Mister Instant Corrective Pen, £26.50, has a fluid consistency that brightens and blurs.
For airbrushed skin, you need a sexy sheen in all the right places. “Illuminator is used before or after foundation, depending on the intensity you want.
You can also add it to your foundation or moisturiser,” explains Lee.
Be careful not to go overboard, though. “Mixing in too much can sometimes change the colour of your foundation or make your skin look shiny,” warns Jane.
To apply like a pro, “look in the mirror and slowly move your head to see where the light naturally hits, and blend it into those areas.”
While illuminators add radiance, highlighters emphasise a specific area. “Dab it along the tops of your cheekbone, brow bone, Cupid’s bow and down the bridge of your nose after foundation using your finger or a synthetic brush. But make sure you blend fully for a seamless glow,” Lee says.
The multipurpose Nars Super Radiant Booster, £25, is a luxurious cream containing brightening vitamin E and light-reflecting pearls, which can be used either as an illuminator to provide a glow underneath your base or a highlighter dabbed in specific areas on top of foundation.
Revlon ColorStay Endless Glow Liquid Highlighter, £9.99, is highly pigmented for a full-on glowy finish.
The final step is to use a face-perfecting powder to ensure your look stays put, without compromising on luminosity. “Use a powder puff to push the product into your skin,” says Jane.
Try Superdrug B. Large Powder Setting Puff, £4.99. “The more you use, the smoother the finish, and the more you push it into skin, the softer and more natural it looks.”
Some setting powders used to make skin appear dry, but the latest generation tick all the right boxes.
Too Faced Peach Perfect Mattifying Loose Setting Powder, £20, feels smooth to the touch and absorbs oil without taking away your skin’s glow.
The Organic Pharmacy Hydrating Translucent Powder, £39, contains hyaluronic acid, coconut oil and vitamin E to help plump, brighten and nourish skin all at once.
“For an even glossier finish, use a brush to lightly dust your setting powder over your T-zone and chin,” advises Jane.
Now you’re ready for your close-up!
