THE repulsive smell of exhaust fumes from the passing cars outside mingle with the aroma of cooking, creating a sharp, contrasting scent that is neither pleasant nor repugnant. I’ve just arrived at the doorstep of Sek Yuen, a renowned Chinese restaurant near the tail-end of Jalan Pudu in Kuala Lumpur, celebrated for its Cantonese cuisine for 76 years.
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