Air fryers can crisp, but they can't steam, braise, and proof bread like a combi can.
In the great world of kitchen appliances, the air fryer has reigned supreme for several years now—crisping, dehydrating, reheating french fries to their former glory like no other can. But an air fryer only does its job one way, by eliminating moisture quickly, and that’s not always what you want. If only there was an appliance out there that could cook my entire meal without shriveling it up. Oh, wait, there is. It’s called a combi oven.
“Combi” is short for combination. You might also see the combi oven called a combi cooker, multicooker, or combi steamer. It turns out that’s a pretty apt title since it combines the functions of some cooking appliances, namely steamers, ovens, and convection ovens. Similarly to the air fryer’s history, combi ovens have been in use in commercial kitchens for ages. Now, what was once only made for industrial use has been shrunk down to a countertop size, and with a price tag that matches.
A combi oven might have an array of cooking styles listed on the package—like steam, air fry, broil, sous vide, sear, or braise—but the combi oven really has just one big difference from the average kitchen appliance: controllable steam injection.
The combi ovens made for home kitchens are electric convection ovens (much like an air fryer): A fan placed in front of an electric heating element stirs up the hot air and circulates it around the chamber to drive moisture away and out the vent, and in doing so, cooks the item faster and hotter than a conventional oven. Add in the steam capabilities and you have three true functions: convection, steam, or convection with steam.
Steam injection can help maintain moisture in the cooking area or introduce more. Incorporating the steam function takes the combi beyond the likes of the air fryer because now you can keep meats and vegetables hydrated—nay, juicy even!—while also browning the outside.
You may or may not be thinking, “Well, I’ll just put a pan of water in my air fryer.” (Maybe I’m the only one who thinks like that?) Anyway, I’ve tried it, and it’s not the same, sorry. The convection winds just blow the moisture around; in this case, technology really has the upper hand. Many combi ovens have frustratingly cool features that digitally control the moisture level of your oven from the phone app, custom settings, or embedded presets for large roasts so you end up with the juiciest pork loin you’ve ever cooked. In a few months, I’ll be roasting a Thanksgiving turkey in a combi oven just to see how it goes. I’m already dreaming of how I could have the entire conventional oven dedicated to warming up side dishes at a reasonable temperature while the bird cooks away in a countertop combi.
Cooking versatility. You can cook almost anything in a combi oven. Steam rice, “boil” an egg, cook a whole casserole, make a soufflé. Attention, bread bakers: You finally have a proof box with humidity control, and you can bake a loaf of bread with the appropriate amount of steam for once.
Precision temperature control. Some models include a probe thermometer, and I recommend those if you can afford it. The probe thermometer will allow you to keep an eye on the temperature of the food you’re cooking, which you can see on the digital display or an app.
Humidity control. You can easily control the humidity and temperature with the digital controls on the appliance or on your phone. You can even get sous-vide-like results and moisture levels in your large cuts of meat.
Practice makes perfect. While the air fryer is as easy as "dump and press 'on,'" a combi oven has more functionality and more of a learning curve.
The price. Well, it’s not as bad as it used to be. A few years ago there were very few makers dabbling in home combis, but now there is more competition and it’s driven the price down to a more reasonable level. Instead of spending at least $600, now you can find some models for around $200.
The size. Combi ovens made for the countertop aren’t very big. Some models offer more cooking space than others, but if you’re making a couple casseroles to feed 15 people, you’re better off cooking them in your conventional oven.
The Ninja Combi All-in-one Multicooker. This appliance sits at a much more approachable $229, but the tradeoff is that it does not offer the steam control that other brands do. Instead of steam injection, the Ninja facilitates passive steaming from a steaming tray that sits on the bottom near a heating element.
The Anova Precision Oven. This is a true combi oven with steam injection from a separate water reservoir; it includes a probe thermometer, and it’s large enough to cook big portions or large cuts of meat. With more control and functionality comes a higher price tag. This combi costs $699 but occasionally goes on sale.
The Dreo ChefMaker Combi Fryer. The Dreo ChefMaker offers steam injection, a probe thermometer for accurate temperature reads, app control, and has a smaller footprint than the Anova, which means it can work well in conjunction with other items in your kitchen, or serve as a great option in a small kitchen. The Dreo retails at $359, but you can occasionally (and right now) find it on sale.
