In the world of sparkling wine, Champagne and Prosecco are often thought of as the only contenders. But there is a vast selection of styles out there, and sparkling wine is made all around the world, with Cyprus joining the list as a newcomer.
Undoubtedly, the grape varieties in a sparkling wine have a large impact on its taste, but the method used to develop the bubbles does, too. Sparkling wines have additional variables that make each unique and it is down to the main fermentation process. There are three, main fermentation processes: traditional, tank and ancestral. Each technique highlights different components, creating the nuanced flavours in any given glass of sparkling wine.
Only Champagne is labelled Méthode Champenoise but in any other place in the world that makes it in the same way it is called Méthode Traditionelle. The second fermentation happens in the bottle, a superior way of making sparkling wine but it is labour intensive and takes longer. This might explain why Champagne costs more than any other sparkling wine.
During a second fermentation, the yeast eats sugar with byproducts of alcohol, heat and carbon dioxide. In still wines the carbon dioxide escapes into the air, however, to make sparkling wine with this method, a second fermentation needs to be induced within the bottle. The sealed carbon dioxide has nowhere to go, the pressure builds and the carbon dioxide integrates into the wine, creating bubbles.
Eventually the yeast will run out of sugar and will die. The longer the dead yeast stays in the bottle, the more bready, bakery smells and tastes will develop in the wine. Winemakers must leave the dead yeast, or lees in there for at least 15 months. Sparkling wine made in this method will have tiny bubbles that don’t go flat quickly.
The tank (or Charmat) method simplifies the process by performing the second fermentation in a large pressurised tank before bottling the bubbly wine.
Finally, the ancestral method involves bottling and sealing the wine before it completes its first fermentation, effectively blocking carbon dioxide in the bottle and producing bubbles. Pétillant naturel, aka pét-nat, as it is called, has certainly seen an explosion in popularity in recent years. But there’s nothing new about this simple method of sparkling wine production. These bubbles were first popularised by the French, since when they’ve rapidly spread around the globe.
2019 Vlassides Winery, Eddial Brut, ABV 12%
Dynamic, yet sleekly elegant, the first sparkling with Chardonnay (65%) and Sauvignon Blanc (35%) from vineyards owned by the producer. A rare document of the 18th century maps the ancient cities of the island and their prosperity. Among the Nine Kingdoms of Cyprus, one of the most prominent of which was Eddial (I saw the sun). This blend offers pretty lemony and citrus notes atop a bed of fragrant white flowers, green apples and honey. Very round and complete with an assertive mousse, just-baked bread, and bruised yellow apple fruit. This bubbly has excellent depth and a terrific mineral finish. €19
N/V Saint Seraphim of Sarov, Solia Winery, Xynisteri, ABV 12%
This wine offers the balance and elegance that has become winemaker Santiago Martinez Polo’s hallmark style. Nutty flavours with hints of crisp apples, zesty yellow citrus and a hint of brioche that build to a refreshingly dry finish. €20
N/V Constantinou Winery, Xynisteri Extra Brut ABV 12.5%
Straw yellow colour with attractive golden hints. Fine and persistent bubbles. Clean fresh aroma. Dry and balanced. Brioche, lemon zest, green apple and toasted nut flavors evaporate into a soft vanilla and citrus blossom. Delicate, elegant and complex with a long finish. €15 from the winery only
N/V Constantinou Winery Xynisteri-Shiraz, Brut, ABV 11%
Elegant medium intensity nose of raspberries, red cherries, spice and cassis from Shiraz with the freshness and vibrancy that Xynisteri offers. Some notes of toast and brioche are an indication of ageing on lees. Very fine and persistent pinpoint bubbles with a finish of crispy rich fruity flavours. €15 from the winery only
2023 Microcosmos, Pet Nat Xynisteri, ABV 12%
The Xynisteri grape is cultivated halfway between the coastlines and high in the mountains, giving it plenty of sunlight for natural ripeness, while also getting cool winds at night to provide acidity. The whole point of Pet Nat is to take it easy! This is a refreshing, fun and zesty Pet Nat that captures everything about the Xynisteri. Golden yellow in colour, it stands out for its floral aromas. Presents aromas of tropical white fruits and orange peel. Its acidity is refreshing and bold, of medium intensity, long and of good acidity and freshness. €21
2023 Microcosmos, Pet Nat Maratheftiko, ABV 12%
This sparkler squeezed from the indigenous black Maratheftiko of the Kathikas region boasts a ruby colour with a pale (but clear) hue, an ebulliently fresh aroma and more sheer fruity charm on the palate than seems decent. It is packed with red fruit and watermelon flavours with subtle herbal, citrus and floral notes throughout. Low alcohol and general deliciousness make this a welcome addition to any festive occasion.€21
2023 Nelion Winery Black Muscat, Rosé AB 12%
The Black Muscat is a dynamic variety that found a home in the Diarizos valley. Lively, juicy, mouthwatering, bubbly goodness! It looks cloudy, but it is bright on the inside. Strawberries, raspberries and pronounced yeastiness on the nose lead to a creamy, chewy off-dry palate with a slightly bitter finish. €17 from the winery only
2023 Tsiakkas Winery, The Vagabond, Mavro, ABV 13.4%
The Vagabond is the adventure of Orestis Tsiakkas with the Mavro grape, from the Mouklos region in Pitsilia’s 80-year-old bio vineyards at 920m altitude. Fermented using the semi maceration and then bottled where its fermentation ends. This fun wine is full of juicy red fruit flavours, white peach, grapefruit peel and kirsch. Limited quantities. €13.50
