My husband and I took the full route on ONCF's train from Marrakech to Fes in first class. The trip was far from luxurious, but I loved it.
Alice Levitt
Ever since I first went to Disney World's Epcot as an almost 12-year-old, I've been captivated by Morocco. Well, at least fake Morocco, the World Showcase version built in 1984 with the participation of King Hassan II.
The intricate tile work, the aromatic tagines, and the friendly people all called to me, but it took me 30 years to pull the trigger and book my voyage.
During a 10-day sojourn, I made it a point to see the three major cities that interested me most: Casablanca, Marrakech, and Fes.
Morocco is not a tiny country, and getting from city to city can take some time. But I was resolute in my desire to make the nearly seven-hour journey from Marrakech to Fes by ONCF train.
Although I could've bought tickets the day of, I bought them two months in advance. Each first-class ticket was $29 — not bad for a ride that long, I thought.
Alice Levitt
My husband insisted we arrive an hour and a half early for our 7:50 a.m. train. Fortunately, the Marrakech Railway Station is full of ways to pass the time.
We stopped at Segafredo, a link in an Italian coffee chain, so my husband could get his latte fix. But since this was Morocco, I ordered a pot of mint tea.
Alice Levitt
We also stocked up on food and drinks in the station's convenience store before boarding our train, though food was also available for purchase on board.
Tyson Bateman
Our train arrived at the station on time, and finding our well-labeled seats was easy.
My husband and I were initially assigned seats diagonally across from each other, but I asked the person assigned the spot next to him if we could switch, and they agreed.
Other passengers had already taken up most of the overhead luggage storage, so we were told to put our bags in the hall. This didn't leave much room for other travelers to pass by.
Alice Levitt
By the time all six people in our compartment were seated, there was no legroom. However, the seats themselves were plush, with a neck rest perfect for passing out for an hour or two.
When we first got on the train, it was pretty hot. Shortly thereafter, the air conditioner turned on, and the car remained frigid for the rest of the trip.
The restroom in our train car wasn't bad, either. It was just a matter of getting used to feeling the cool air from beneath the train rushing toward my nether regions.
Alice Levitt
With frequent stops, there was a constant shuffle of passengers on and off the train.
In Casablanca, about halfway through my trip, another English-speaking passenger sat down next to me. The Mumbai-based gentleman told me that he was headed to Fes to meet a potential match for marriage.
We talked for most of the rest of the journey.
Alice Levitt
Though there are cheap hourlong flights on Ryanair from Marrakech to Fes, I'm glad that I took the train.
I felt like I had a true Moroccan experience, bags in the hallway and all. I talked to fellow passengers and even made changes to my itinerary based on advice from a gentleman who got on at the last stop.
Taking the train also allowed me to see areas I didn't have time to visit in earnest
For example, when we entered Rabat, Morocco's capital, I was overwhelmed by the beauty of Zaha Hadid's Grand Théatre de Rabat on the Bouregreg River. It's an African answer to Sydney's famous opera house.
I was equally enamored with the rolling hills dotted with sheep and the orange groves through which we passed. There's nothing like train travel to facilitate passively seeing the sights.
A plane is just a plane. A languid train trip is a memorable day on its own. I would do it again without hesitation.
