The bolo tie is one of those accessories that seems strange on the surface, until you realize how truly versatile and sharp it can be. But as with any menswear you might not be used to, it’s worth keeping in mind some tried-and-true tips. Whether a bolo tie already naturally fits your cowboy aesthetic or—more likely—you’re just dipping your way into this storied neckwear, we have many thoughts on how to wear a bolo tie below.
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For such a singular and well-known accessory, the bolo tie (or corbata de bolo, as it’s known in Spanish) has a murky history. There’s an unconfirmed tale about a cowboy in Arizona, Victor Cedarstaff, who may or may not have accidentally invented the tie in the 1940s to avoid losing his hat, but as Kansas City magazine reports, that may well be fiction.
What we do know is that the bolo tie is unique to the Americas. It has origins among Native American tribes. In the early 1900s, “Hopi, Navajo, and Zuni men used leather cords and ornaments to fasten neckerchiefs at their necks,” Kansas City notes.
In the U.S., it’s had ups and downs, with the ‘80s being a peak bolo moment even if you lived nowhere near Texas (think: the popularity of the TV series Dallas). Genuine cowboys and cowgirls have never turned their back on the accessory, in part because it speaks so much to that specific culture across generations.
Now even among luxury menswear brands, so-called Western or cowboy wear is having a resurgence. Hence the bolo ties put out by Prada, Ralph Lauren, and the like. You’d do well to avoid more costume-y takes on the bolo tie and make it work for you—after all, the bolo tie is shockingly versatile, from smart casual to business casual to even proper formal events, if you know how to pull it off.
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Yup, there doesn’t need to be any “yeehaw” flair to make a bolo tie beautifully pop with the rest of your outfit, whether you’re headed to a cowboy cocktail party or a wedding. (But, unless you happen to be a Texas oil baron, we’d recommend not wearing one to the office.)
My bolo tie adventure started like it does for many people: I was fascinated with endless pop culture iterations, from Robert Redford in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid to John Travolta’s unusual and magnetic L.A. gangster spin on the cowboy aesthetic in Pulp Fiction. With Western wear being ascendant again, you can find both male and female celebrities putting their own stamp on the bolo tie, including Post Malone, Quavo, Nick Jonas, Timothée Chalamet, Brad Pitt, Pharrell, Billie Eilish, and more.
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But the first time I really thought about wearing a bolo tie was a couple years ago in preparation for my brother’s wedding. He got married in Mexico City, which is not exactly bolo town, but his now-wife has family from the Mexican state of Chihuahua, which shares a border with New Mexico and gives off much more of a rancher vibe. Since bolo ties are seen on both sides of the U.S.-Mexico border, I thought it would be a fun way to nod to that history.
I did not do a great job planning for my bolo, though. I had my usual charcoal suit, white Oxford shirt, and navy leather sneakers (see those below) packed. But with only a few days until I flew to CDMX, I purchased a suspiciously cheap bolo tie that arrived late—a day or two after my flight.
I did what I could, hopeful that somewhere in Mexico City would sell any bolo tie. The higher-end men’s clothing shops, as well as the middle-of-the-road department stores looked at me with bewilderment: Yes, they knew bolo ties, but that is clearly not the look in a giant cosmopolitan city. My brother and I ventured to the nearby outdoor mercado, and vendor after vendor politely said that wasn't something they sold. Finally, a handmade bolo tie with a leather braid and silver clasp (the part at the center of the tie worn close to your neck) appeared. I knew instantly this was the bolo tie for a wedding—not hokey or obvious, but drawing attention to a distinctive, formal-appropriate accessory others wouldn’t be wearing.
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Here’s the other thing about bolo ties: They’re insanely practical. They travel well, the leather never crumpling in your luggage. As mentioned above, their versatility is wildly underrated—there’s no need to go full cowboy cosplay (my Common Projects leather sneakers got almost as many compliments at the wedding). And you won’t feel that dreaded sweat along your collar where a thick necktie might feel oppressive after a while. Plus, it makes for a natural conversation piece (in all the right ways), meaning you don’t have to come up with lame weather or “so what do you do?” conversation material.
And, honestly, does any man love tying a tie? It brings a certain amount of satisfaction when the knot is just right, but so long as you pull the bolo tie’s leather cords through the clasp flush against your shirt, you can’t go wrong. Suaveness combined with a certain laziness? Unbeatable.
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How to properly wear a bolo tie? Though the pitfalls can give off the wrong image, this is fairly straightforward. Given that the bolo tie is steeped in specific context, you don’t want to come off as obnoxious with your overall styling. Again, unless you happen to be someone who regularly wears cowboy boots, or who lives in ranch-like areas of the Southwest, Midwest, or Mexico, you should avoid dressing as a walking Yellowstone advertisement. If you do regularly wear cowboy boots, smoke cigars, ride horses, etc., by all means: be you. Cowboy hat? Again, if it speaks to who you already are, go for it.
For the rest of us, the power of the bolo tie is in how it stands out yet coordinates with a number of aesthetics, from suits to more casual looks. The bolo is going to be the focus, so no need to wear colorful or overly embroidered Western shirts. Sleeker Western shirts, chambray shirts, and French blue dress shirts paired with a suit work in harmony with a bolo tie. And don’t be afraid to slip on boots of some kind, including refined leather cowboy-ish boots. In that case, steer toward neutral colors all around your fit.
A collared shirt is a non-negotiable partner to a bolo tie. This is, after all, still a tie. But, in addition to dress shirts for formal events, play around with Oxford shirts in different colors, and other looser button-downs, when the occasion is more casual. Leather sneakers are a natural complement to the bolo tie's "I'm fun yet put-together" vibe.
Jeans are a no-go for many work situations and weddings, but for a night out with friends, denim is another natural partner. A pop of color in the bolo tie itself can be elegant yet playful (check out our recommended bolo tie with a turquoise stone below). And, as always, never forget confidence—channel your inner Chalamet, and you’ll be surprised by the number of smiles you get.
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