By CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL, Associated Press
Pasticceria Gollini in Vignola, Italy, not far from Modena, is home to the sumptuous flourless chocolate cake known as torta Barozzi.
Created in 1886 by pastry chef Eugenio Gollini and named for Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola, a 16th-century architect, the much-loved sweet continues today to be produced according to a closely guarded secret recipe.
Professional and home bakers alike have attempted to re-create the dessert, and we set out to devise a formula. It’s well known that torta Barozzi is made without wheat flour, and is therefore gluten-free. Instead, a combination of ground peanuts and almonds — along with whipped egg whites — delivers a structure that’s somehow rich and dense yet remarkably light.
When developing this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street Bakes,” we found that we could skip the peanuts, as almond flour alone worked well. To achieve a complex chocolatiness, we use both cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate. For best results, look for chocolate with about 70 percent cocoa solids. And don’t use natural cocoa. The recipe will still work, but the cake will be lighter in color and not quite as deep in flavor as when made with Dutch-processed cocoa.
Instant espresso powder accentuates the deep, roasty, bitter notes and a dose of dark rum lifts the flavors with its fieriness.
Take care not to overbake the cake. Remove it from the oven when a toothpick inserted at the center comes out with a few sticky crumbs clinging to it. After 30 to 45 minutes of cooling, the cake is inverted out of the pan; don’t worry about re-inverting it. True torta Barozzi is left upside down for cutting and serving. Serve with lightly sweetened mascarpone, whipped cream, or with vanilla gelato.
Ingredients:
141 grams (10 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 10 pieces, plus more for the pan
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
21 grams (¼ cup) Dutch-processed cocoa powder, plus more for dusting
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
4 large eggs, separated, room temperature
161 grams (¾ cup) white sugar, divided
100 grams (1 cup) almond flour
½ teaspoon table salt
3 tablespoons dark rum
Directions:
EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap