Since the pandemic, it feels like London unveils a new restaurant every day. There’s always something buzzing around town, whether it’s from a high-profile chef or a yet-unknown restauranteur. This year, the city did particularly well for new openings, with dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars making their grand debut across every neighborhood, enlivening locals and visitors alike. Some were highly anticipated, like Santiago Lastra’s Fonda, a Mexican eatery that opened its doors in early October, and Larry Jayasekara’s luxurious eatery The Cocochine, as well as restaurateur and chef Jason Atherton’s Sael London at St James’s Market, while others flew more under the radar, including Cornus, an elegant British spot worth a dinner or two. AngloThai, previously a pop-up, debuted in Marylebone, offering a blend of British and Thai cuisine. But while there was a lot of great food to taste in 2024, a few restaurants stood out above the rest, compelling diners with their cuisine, atmosphere and service.
From Bottarga, a buzzy new Greek spot deep in Chelsea, to the re-opening of architectural standout The Hero in Maida Vale, London acquired some strong new additions to its dining scene. And not all of them require you to break the bank to eat there. Whether you’re looking for a low-key pub meal or something more high-end, here are 10 of London’s best new restaurant openings of 2024.
The London restaurant scene is sorely lacking in decent Mexican food. Even restaurants proclaiming to offer good Mexican typically miss the mark—or completely lack authenticity. Enter Santigo Lastra, the chef behind Michelin-starred fine dining hot spot Kol in Marylebone. Lastra has revolutionized the London dining scene’s approach to the cuisine by flying in masa from Mexico and showcasing traditional flavors with a contemporary approach, something he’s also doing in his more casual restaurant Fonda. The lively spot, located in Mayfair, is a revelation for those of us who need corn tortillas and mole in our lives on a regular basis. The menu is thoughtful without being overwrought, with a bluefin tuna crudo that deserves its own accolades. The mains, served with a generous helping of the handmade tortillas, are perfect sharing plates and stand out, particularly the short rib mole, but there’s really no wrong order here. And when the servers offer more tortillas if you need them, say yes.
Although you have to trek down the King’s Road to get there, Bottarga is one of London’s hottest recent openings for good reason. It’s extremely buzzy and hip, with a crowd that pairs Chelsea locals with discerning foodies from all over the city. The restaurant presents itself as Greek inspired, but it’s more of a Mediterranean vibe, with lots of shared plates, dips including a fish roe tarama and smoked aubergine, and grilled breads. The meze and spreads are fun, but it’s the salads and mains that really seal the deal at Bottarga, especially anything they’re doing with lamb. Ultimately, though, you’re here for one thing: the gooey, indulgent chocolate burnt cheesecake. It’s a dessert that could single-handedly win awards and it’s so rich and enormous you’ll have to share. But don’t worry: you can always order a second helping to take home for tomorrow.
Want to taste pure luxury? Order the vanilla ice cream at The Cocochine, chef Larry Jayasekara’s flagship restaurant. The discerning Mayfair spot, which boasts London’s most impressive private dining room, is all about subtle indulgence, rather than something showy or pretentious. The concept is embodied by that ice cream, which amps up the vanilla flavor to such a degree that you can feel the vanilla bean lingering on your tongue. The seasonal dishes are just as memorable, with much of the produce coming from the restaurant’s own Rowler Farm. You can go big, with a foie gras and otoro starter adorned with caviar or a delicate take on surf and turf, but Jayasekara’s menu isn’t over the top. He emphasizes ingredients like onions, mushrooms and chicken as much as he does lobster and truffles. The restaurant nails the balance, and it helps that the dining room and the service just as elegant. If only you could buy the ice cream at The Rex Delicatessen, Jayasekara’s more casual joint across the street.
Several Indian restaurants opened their doors in London this year, and while all are worthy of visiting, Vatavaran stands out. Opened by chef Rohit Ghai and Abhishake Sangwan, the elegant restaurant showcases Himalayan-inspired flavors, an approach that is mirrored through the building itself. There’s a downstairs bar, a mid-level dining room with an open-flame kitchen and an upstairs private bar, Shikhar. The menu is just as expansive, with à la carte and tasting menu options as well as a set lunch menu and a dedicated vegan menu (a real standout in the London dining scene). The dishes veer from traditional favorites like butter chicken and lamb shank biryani to charcoal-grilled offerings like sea bass and guinea fowl. It’s all flavorful and beautifully presented, with lots of opportunity to build a complete feast out of your meal. The desserts and cocktails are equally thoughtful, and the chef has taken a lot of care to emphasize Indian flavors and spices. It’s a great addition to Knightsbridge.
Refined elegance is on display at Cornus, a new spot from Medlar owners David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne. The restaurant, an airy dining room and bar on the upper floor of a contemporary Belgravia development, is both thoughtfully designed and well presented. Head chef Gary Foulkes emphasized seasonality and British produce on his tasteful menu, available as a tasting menu or by the dish for lunch or dinner. The seafood is particularly memorable, including the delicate Devon crab starter, as are the desserts, presented with care so as not be too heavy or sweet. Those who drink wine will find a lot to like about the wine list, which showcases primarily European bottles, but the cocktails, both alcoholic and otherwise, are well-balanced and enjoyable. A top pick for a special occasion or a casual lunch.
Ah, the tuna pizza. It may sound weird, but Akira Back’s signature dish, composed of perfectly cut raw tuna, is a truly memorable plate. So is the rest of the menu at Akira Back, the chef’s debut restaurant in London, which opened in the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair earlier this year. The room is beautifully designed, with an open kitchen and natural light pouring in through the ceiling, and the service is friendly and helpful. In fact, for being in an upscale luxury hotel Akira Back is far more casual than you might expect. The menu is a blend of Japanese and Korean influence; the sushi rolls are top-notch, especially the perfect storm, and the dynamite king crab is a spicy, revelatory order. There are high-end flourishes, like caviar and truffles, for those who want them, but you don’t need any extras here. The breakfast is equally thoughtful; along with classic omelettes and other breakfast foods, try the pine nut and mushroom porridge, a completely unique offering that you’ll think about for months after eating.
Formerly The Hero of Maida, The Hero has quickly solidified itself as one of London’s best gastropubs since reopening earlier this year. The casual neighborhood spot is divided into several levels, with the pub on the ground floor and the more upscale restaurant The Grill upstairs. There’s also a hidden cocktail bar, unusual for the area, and every corner of the building tends to be especially lively on the weekends. The menu at the pub is affordable and delicious, offering modern takes on traditional dishes like chicken pie and steak and chips. It also serves the absolute best sticky toffee pudding around. The Grill, which boasts an effortless, rustic chic vibe, amps things up with grilled turbot or ribeye (both a must) alongside thoughtful presentations of British ingredients pigeon, monkfish and trout. Both are great, ensuring you’ll book a return visit.
London has been on a French kick lately, with multiple restaurants inspired by the cuisine opening this year. But Marceline, a brasserie in Canary Wharf, is the most compelling of them, drawing inspiration from both France and New York City in equal measure. Its waterside location is a bonus, especially if you can score a table on the terrace, although all of the restaurant has an upbeat, lively vibe that feels more suited to Soho than a business district. The food, from chef Robert Aikens, is just traditional enough, showcasing Parisian brasserie favorites with a spin, like steak tartare adorned with hazelnuts and artichoke chips. The rotisserie chicken is simple but delicious, dressed in a rich jus and ideally accompanied by fries. There’s a lot to like on the menu, but most of all, it’s the desserts that cement Marceline’s status on this list. Order the chocolate, a delectable mess of different chocolate textures, for a satisfying finish.
The Barbary’s original location, in Covent Garden’s Neal Yard, showcases an innovative take on cuisine inspired by the Barbary Coast, a 16th-century region comprising North Africa and southern Europe. Its newly-debuted sister spot in Notting Hill takes things up a notch with a larger dining room, new dishes and an upbeat vibe that befits the west London neighborhood. The shared plates, intended to be devoured feast-style, showcase a distinct depth of flavor, veering from dips like hummus to a dynamite coffee rub organic chicken (the best dish on the menu). The flatbreads, which come with small plates like fried artichokes and dips, are a standout, as is the rich pata negra pork chop, a variation on one of the Covent Garden location’s top offerings. The 250-bottle wine list includes Spanish, French and Italian varietals, along with a small selection of Hungarian, Greek, Portuguese and Lebanese wines. It’s a fun, delicious experience for lunch or dinner, and a welcome addition to Notting Hill.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten has delighted diners with his restaurants in the U.S. for years, including Abc Cocina and Abc Kitchen. While he’s currently installed in The Connaught with a fine dining offering, Vongerichten made a splash this year by bringing a more casual spot to The Emory when it opened in the spring. Abc Kitchens, which overlooks Hyde Park, is chic and art-filled, with a contemporary sense of luxury that is notably approachable. The all-day dining menu showcases a broad range of dishes, from pizza and pasta to spicy fried chicken to crispy fish tacos. It’s the sort of the menu that allows a diner to create any kind of order, from indulgent to light, and there’s a solid amount of plant-based options (don’t miss the cornmeal crusted maitake and king oyster mushrooms). The service is attentive and friendly, ensuring that the high-end location doesn’t put off diners.
