With the influx of makeup bombarding beauty shelves and For You pages everywhere, it’s easy to end up with a stockpile of products that you barely even hit pan on, let alone use up completely.
But if you’re hanging on to a beloved collection of ancient eyeshadows, mascara, lipstick and foundation, it may be time to question whether or not these products are still safe to use. Using expired makeup may not seem problematic, but experts say it can come with an unpleasant application experience at best, and potential health risks at worst.
Expired makeup looks different depending on the type of product.
You’ll know a liquid foundation has reached the end of its life if it has oxidised (meaning the colour has changed). “Oxidation means the product reacted with air and moisture, and is probably a sign of expiration,” said Manuel Espinoza, a Los Angeles-based makeup artist.
Any change in consistency is also a red flag: If the foundation was originally a cream and appears curdled, or if it was originally a gel that exhibits changes in viscosity (meaning, it becomes liquid), it’s a sign to toss it, said Nicole Ho, a cosmetic chemist at Genie Supply. For products like serum foundations, which need to stay mixed properly to work as they should, a good sign it’s expired is if you spot a visual separation of the oil and water.
Powder products, which are usually more stable than liquids, can still deteriorate over time. “The main concern with powder products is exposure to humidity and moisture, which can cause the powder to clump together and create an environment where bacteria and mould can grow,” said Dr. Shuting Hu, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Acaderma. “Air exposure can also slowly break down certain active ingredients in powder products, especially if the product contains antioxidants or vitamins.” An expired powder product may exhibit textural changes (it may not be as smooth during application) or color changes (there may be white spots sitting on top of the powder).
When it comes to expired lip products, you may notice them becoming dry, making it difficult to get a smooth application. An expired lipstick can also experience color and textural changes, in addition to smelling musty or displaying fuzzy spots.
If a product has reached its expiration date but you’re not experiencing any changes in application or feel, it still may not be safe to use. This is especially true for makeup products that have active ingredients, such as a liquid foundation with SPF. According to Hu, if a foundation containing SPF has expired, it no longer provides full protection, which can increase your risk of sunburn and skin damage. It can also give a false sense of security that you’re protecting your skin.
Expired powder products — like eyeshadow, blush and bronzer — come with their fair share of issues, too. For one, these formulas typically come into regular contact with a makeup brush, which can harbour bacteria and make them more prone to contamination and potential skin irritation, said Hu. Aside from this, you may experience a thin film on top of the powder in addition to patchy application and reduced pigmentation.
Makeup products used on or around your eyes and lips — mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, lip liner and lip gloss — are particularly harmful if used past their expiration date.
As Hu explained, every time you apply mascara, the wand comes into contact with your lashes. The wand picks up bacteria from your skin as well as contaminants in the air, which then gets put back into the mascara tube. “Once mascara expires, the preservatives inside the product that prevents bacterial growth become less effective, which means that over time, this buildup can cause serious problems, including eye infections or irritation,” she said. Not to mention, the inside of a mascara tube is dark and moist — aka the perfect condition for bacteria to grow.
Expired lip products are also risky to use. “Lipsticks collect bacteria and fungi over time, which can lead to infections like cold sores on your lips or in your mouth,” said Hu. Plus, lip products can be unconsciously ingested, posing potential health risks.
When exactly should we start the clock on our makeup products? According to Ho, a product’s shelf life starts from the date it’s manufactured and would be paused when the product is opened. “From this point forward, the lifespan is determined by the Period After Opening (PAO),” said Ho. This is typically reflected as a number and the letter “M” — for example, 6M indicates the product expires six months after opening.
Once a makeup product is opened, it starts to lose its effectiveness faster, despite what the expiration date is, Hu said. To extend the life of your products, it’s essential to keep them stored away from any air, humidity, moisture or excessive heat exposure, said Espinoza. Always close the container when not in use (specifically when it comes to powdered products), and avoid touching products with your hands or fingers, as this can introduce bacteria. When using brushes or sponges — especially with powder products — make sure you’re cleaning them frequently to avoid contamination.
