MANILA, Philippines — This year, the Philippine culinary scene turned up the heat.
With the opening of new homegrown restaurants, the arrival of international chains, and the emergence of Filipino chefs and their evolving talents, we saw the best of the food and beverage industry each bringing their own flavor to the table.
2024 served us a feast like no other, and as we wrap it up, we’re raising a glass (and a fork!) to the trailblazing chefs, restaurants, and pop-ups that sparked excitement and tickled our tastebuds, all while showcasing our Filipino heritage, creating memories on a plate, and cooking up culinary standouts that left us hungry for more.
Sonja Ocampo, the cupcake pioneer who revolutionized Manila’s dessert scene in the 2000s, marked another career milestone with By Sonja, her new cozy café in Chino Roces Avenue, Makati City.
From her humble beginnings in New York kitchens to becoming the Philippines’ “queen of cupcakes,” Sonja Ocampo’s culinary journey is nothing short of inspiring. Her passion for pastry blossomed in the bustling kitchens of New York, particularly at the iconic Bouley restaurant, where rigorous training taught her the value of precision and refinement. Returning home, she brought her French culinary expertise to life with Cupcakes by Sonja in 2006. Nearly two decades later, Sonja continues to evolve, debuting her latest concept that is closest to her heart.
By Sonja is a reflection of Sonja’s expanded repertoire, showcasing her passion for French techniques and delicate confections.The menu here is a bit more grown-up than what you’d find at Cupcakes by Sonja, with elegant offerings like the Crêpe Carrement Caramel, Galette Complete, and Napoleon Mille-feuille, each made with the finest ingredients and traditional methods, including other buttery viennoiseries, refined French classics, and subtly Japanese-influenced creations. Every item reflects her philosophy of balance and restraint, using the finest ingredients to make sure every bite is a simple yet impactful experience focused on flavor.
The space, formerly her commissary, exudes charm and warmth, with intimate seating for catching up with friends or enjoying a solo coffee paired with freshly-baked pastries. Sustainability is also at the heart of By Sonja, with composting practices and farm-to-table ingredients playing a vital role in her creations.
Chef Francis Tolentino debuted Taupe, a minimalist and elegant fine dining restaurant in Bonifacio Global City that champions locally-sourced produce and regional ingredients through tasting menus that are approachable yet artistically refined, with dishes that feel like comforting favorites reimagined.
In September, the melt-in-your-mouth Kurobuta Belly impressed, served with batwan puree, the sour fruit beloved by Ilonggos; harmonizing the fruit’s vibrant acidity with the pork’s smoky richness. The Apahap with Mangosteen Granita was a highlight palate cleanser, providing a refreshing pause of familiar fruity coolness to complement the richness of the meal so far.
The Roxas Tiger Prawn with carabao’s milk ricotta showed off a mix of luxurious ingredients, with the prawns offering a delicate sweetness and the ricotta bringing a creamy richness to the dish.
The Blue Crabs with burnt coconut on shiso leaves were a nod to Mindanao’s Pamapa Itum, a traditional ingredient, to give the fresh and moist crab an earthy complexity. For dessert, Taupe’s homemade mochi, filled with South Cotabato dark chocolate, wrapped up the meal in the best way, with a nod to the country’s cacao heritage, offering a soft, chewy exterior and a rich, decadent filling.
“Each ingredient is carefully chosen to not only represent the place from which it hails but also to complement and enhance the flavors of each dish they grace,” Tolentino said.
“We’re committed to supporting local farmers and producers, showcasing the best of what the Philippines has to offer, and ensuring that each dish at Taupe tells a story of our rich culinary heritage.”
Over at the new EZRA Resort in Tagaytay, cookbook author and TV chef Sharwin Tee’s pop-up restaurant Little Grace tells his childhood story through his latest 12-course tasting menu inspired by his Chinoy heritage, available until the end of 2024.
Each dish tells a story of family and immigrant traditions; he narrates it as you dine inside the private and cool al fresco gazebo of EZRA, beautiful to dine in at night surrounded by its koi ponds.
Tee’s tasting menu is an exploration of contrasting textures and the resurrection of familiar Chinoy flavors, while sourcing forgotten heritage ingredients from his culture; many of which are not readily available in most markets, and only in nondescript Chinese markets.
Growing up, there were certain dishes and ingredients he never quite enjoyed, like bitter vegetables or bold fermented flavors, and even now, he still struggles with them. But instead of rejecting these elements, he chose to use them as inspiration to create innovative new dishes that retain their traditional essence but are more approachable to the modern palate.
In November, we enjoyed the surprising yet satisfying Kiam Tao Din, a soy milk soup layered with aged black vinegar, wood ear mushrooms, and spring onion: a harmonious balance of savory and sour. The Kiam Peng, the filling main, features fragrant and moist rice topped with crispy HK-style pork à la lechon Macau, mustard leaf pesto, apple mostarda, and the familiar profiles of five-spice and star anise.
The Tao Meng Tsai is a rich dish of heritage vegetables like hair vegetable and bearded tooth mushroom in a sticky-sweet sauce.
The meal ends with Amah’s Gulaman, a refreshing dessert of orange-scented panna cotta, pineapple frozen yogurt, and miso soil — tart, citrusy, and bright.
Filipino fine dining restaurant Hapag of Chef John Kevin Navoa and Chef Thirdy Dolatre has grown from its humble Katipunan beginnings to a full-fledged restaurant in Balmori Suites, Rockwell.
Its current tasting menu, “Flavors of the Western Visayas,” is a tribute to the region’s rich, culinary heritage. Diners are treated to a fresh kinilaw of calamansi and ginger dressing with different fish like tanigue and tuna, and a side of Negros Criollo cacao vinegar for customizable acidity.
The Tambo combines bamboo shoots in sweet corn custard with Negros blue crab in coconut sauce. The rich custard and crunchy bamboo shoots pair well with the fresh crab, topped with fresh talbos ng kamote: a thick, creamy, and comforting take on the sweet cream of corn soup.
The inasal skewers feature less common but just as tasty parts of the chicken — gizzards, butt, and skin— grilled to sweet-savory goodness of different textures: crunchy, soft, and chewy. The sweet potato sourdough miso piaya with cold shrimp salad is both comforting and creative, while crave-able desserts like the tart batwan sorbet palate cleanser, pili butterscotch, and Napoleones pay homage to Visayan flavors from Iloilo and Bacolod with finesse.
Hapag’s commitment to Filipino culinary heritage and innovation puts a focus on local fermentation methods and regional ingredients sourced from local communities, like Asin tibuok, Guimaras mangoes, Negrense chorizo, and more.
Kasa Palma in Poblacion is an island-inspired oasis where local produce and smoky flavors reign supreme — a casual-refined dining experience that feels like an escape to the tropics, right in the heart of Makati City.
Chef Aaron Isip’s culinary journey is a fusion of diverse influences, shaped by his roots in the Philippines and his training in France. Raised in the Philippines, he honed his skills in Paris, where he learned the importance of seasonal ingredients and refined techniques. He served as Chef de Cuisine at Dix-Huit and receiving the Trophée Espoir from Gault et Millau in 2018, the first Filipino to do so. Chef Isip’s love for the Yucatan Peninsula emboldened his cooking, incorporating Mexican, Latin American, Southeast Asian, and Filipino flavors into his dishes, resulting in a smoke-forward, gritty style that blends French precision with bold, rustic regional influences.
At Kasa Palma, Chef Isip emphasizes locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and his wood-fired cooking techniques. A standout dish is the Seabream Crudo, which combines the freshness of dragonfruit aguachile, avocado, and pomelo with the crunch of ube crisps, creating a refreshing starter that balances acidity, heat, and sweetness. Another highlight is the Gambero Rosso with Bisque Butter, featuring tender prawns in a rich, umami-packed bisque, complemented by grilled calamansi for a tangy kick.
Chef Miko Calo’s journey in the culinary world is mostly defined by her expertise in French cuisine and her dedication to elevating Filipino flavors. She honed her skills at renowned restaurants such as L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Singapore and Joël Robuchon’s establishments in Paris and London. In 2019, she co-founded Metronome, a modern French fine dining restaurant, where she served as executive chef. However, in April 2024, she resigned to explore new opportunities.
Chef Calo takes her drive, passion, and skill wherever she goes. Alongside her all-women team, she brought her AVEC series to Sage’s kitchen in Makati Shangri-La last November and December, where she collaborated with Cibo’s Chef Margarita Fores for a one-night dinner blending Filipino ingredients, Italian techniques, and Calo’s French training.
Highlights of the menu included an innovative iteration of ukoy with gambero rosso kinilaw, and a delicate balut flan topped with salted egg mousseline and cured egg. The Maja Blanca was reimagined with the richness of Negros blue crab, labong, and a sweet panna cotta. A buttery, warm brioche mille-feuille is spread with Gaita’s talangka brown butter (her favorite ingredient) and a hint of calamansi — this was divine.
For the main course, a kamias-glazed pigeon (tender, soft, rich, but delicate) was paired with Philippine root crop sapin-sapin, coffee and guava sciroppo, and smoked kesong puti. The evening ended with a pili-crusted mille-feuille — crispy, sweet, and filled with a savory Malagos ala regina espuma, offering a memorable balance of flavors.
Hailing from Cagayan de Oro, popular coffee shop H Proper Coffee Roasters opened its doors in Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati, after being just a pop-up for many months. Known for its single-origin beans and meticulous brewing techniques, H Roasters is a coffee lover’s paradise, founded by owner Harley Yu.
Yu’s commitment to ethical sourcing and elevating Filipino coffee farmers takes center stage — the branch is beautiful, sleek, and decked in jet black and subtle gold, featuring a room where you can see the grinding magic happen. H Roasters’ Bukidnon Bourbon Blend has become a best-seller, prized for its nutty, caramel notes, and the Mt. Apo Arabica delivers a smooth, chocolatey finish.
Enjoy a coffee flight of the best-selling beans and brews, take home H Roasters’ signature cold brew, or sip on the Spanish latte alongside H Roasters’ just-as-good freshly baked pastries, like the crowd-favorite butter croissant and chocolate babka.
Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill made its highly-anticipated debut in Newport World Resorts, Pasay City, bringing the celebrity chef’s world-famous British classics like the Beef Wellington, Fish and Chips, and Sticky Toffee Pudding to Manila.
Eggdrop MNL opened at SM Mall of Asia, bringing the original source of the popular Korean egg sandwich trend from South Korea to Manila. Gyukatsu Boracay arrived on the island of Boracay, bringing Japanese-style gyukatsu (breaded and deep-fried beef cutlets) to the Philippines under a homegrown brand. Japanese chains Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu and Ganso-Gyukatsu also opened earlier this year in the SM Mall of Asia area.
Carmelo’s Steakhouse opened in The Proscenium in Makati, offering a sophisticated dining experience with steaks and an extensive wine list. The legacy of the late Carmelo “Melo” Santiago of Melo’s (known for bringing Certified Angus Beef to the Philippines back in 1987) lives on through his daughter Chef Cristina.
USA’s Morton’s The Steakhouse and Malaysia’s Secret Recipe were both brought to the Philippines by The Bistro Group, while Filipino restaurant Manam’s new Hayop brought its beloved Filipino comfort food concept to Singapore, expanding the reach of its popular dishes like sisig, kare-kare, and crispy pata, but with slightly luxurious twists.
Nene Chicken, a popular fried chicken chain from South Korea, opened its doors at One Ayala Mall, offering crispy fried chicken with authentic Korean flavors and some Philippine-exclusive ones. On the other hand, Goobne, another Korean chicken chain, offers oven-roasted chicken options using less oil in Bonifacio Global City.
Recovering from the pandemic, it’s both inspiring and exciting to see the local F&B industry no longer merely picking up the pieces, pivoting, or leaving behind old passions — in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Many are now bolder and braver, finally reaching for the dreams that were put on pause. Others are expanding and growing, and we, as consumers, are lucky to have even more options to choose from and local names to support; the industry is charging full speed ahead into 2025, and we are here for it! – Rappler.com
