Unfortunately for superintendents, nutsedge has the uniquely irritating ability to be a common problem for golf courses, yet one that’s still incredibly pesky to get rid of.
This aggressive perennial can hide in fairways and on the outskirts of courses throughout North America, usually preferring moist soils. However, once an infestation is established, it quickly withstands even droughts, hogging the soil’s resources while remaining annoyingly resilient.
Nutsedges are challenging to remove because their tubers and underground stems (rhizomes) survive in the ground even after the leaves die during the cold fall or winter. They can grow up to 14 inches below the soil surface, and new tubers can form four to six weeks after new branches spread and emerge.
Chris Butcher, Quali-Pro southeast territory manager, says nutsedge is also called nutgrass due to its similarities to various grassy weeds. However, this nickname can be problematic for superintendents.
“Nutsedge is sometimes mistaken for a ‘grassy’ weed because of similar appearance, and many herbicides designed for grassy weed control are ineffective against nutsedge,” Butcher says.
It may sound obvious, but the answer is in the name. Sedges require different treatments to grassy weeds, so correct identification is essential.
Nutsedge usually has thicker and stiffer leaves than grasses and are arranged in sets of three at the base. Butcher also says nutsedge grows quicker than grasses, making them look gaudy and stand out in an otherwise well-maintained course.
On top of identifying nutsedge from other weeds, superintendents need to determine which kind of nutsedge they’re dealing with. The two most common types are yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) and purple (Cyperus rotundus), which is essential for knowing the best herbicide.
While the two species often grow together, yellow nutsedge is more common due to its higher cold tolerance, while purple nutsedge is more vigorous. Butcher says they can differ by seedhead color, height and even leaf shape.
You’ve identified a nutsedge invasion at your club, and you know what color you’re dealing with. So, now what? Well, Butcher recommends first ensuring you have proper course maintenance and irrigation to maximize the efficiency of treatments.
“Timing nutsedge applications post-emergent is more effective when plants are young, the correct herbicides are applied and soil moisture conditions are adequate,” he says. “Applications during drought and extreme heat may lead to inadequate control.”
Active ingredients such as halosulfuron, sulfentrazone and bentazon can be successful options for postemergent treatment, and Butcher recommends sticking to trusted brands and products for more guaranteed results.
Butcher says Quali-Pro has two products, Sedgemaster and Expel, that he recommends for sedge control.
“Sedgemaster and Expel do an excellent job of controlling nutsedge and other weed species. Sedgemaster (powered by halosulfuron) is a Group 2 herbicide that inhibits amino acid formation,” Butcher says. “Expel (powered by sulfentrazone) inhibits PPO enzymes in Nutsedge. Expel and Sedgemaster have separate modes of action, which is important to Integrated Pest Management programs when chemistries are rotated to prevent herbicide-resistant weeds.”
Turf Pest of the Month: What superintendents need to know about identifying and controlling kyllinga
Turf Pest of the Month: Get to know ABW
<p>The post Turf Pest of the Month: Tips for driving away nutsedge first appeared on Golfdom.</p>
