CHRISTMAS markets are calling from across the Channel as the festive season swings into action.
While many Brits will flock to traditional continental cities such as Bruges or Lille, a lesser-known place in France has started to capture the public’s attention — Arras.
This small city in northern France, just an hour from Calais and close to the Belgian border, has played a big role in military history.
Its underground network of tunnels was used by Allied forces from Britain and New Zealand to launch a surprise attack against the Germans during the First World War.
There is more action above ground these days as Arras punches above its weight to attract visitors.
It has staked a claim to being the home of French fries, but its two historic squares also host an under-the-radar Christmas market.
My wife and I have spent plenty of December days battling the crowds in London, or in popular locations such as Bruges, Hamburg and Rotterdam, to get that perfect memorable shot of our young daughters by Christmas lights or for an evening of festive food and frolics. And this feels worlds apart.
Arras has everything those busier markets provide, and with plenty of space for photo opportunities.
Giant glowing baubles, ribbons and Christmas trees, as well as the traditional big wheel that sits sparkling white in the dark sky, make for perfect backdrops.
The smell of mulled wine fills the air on Grand Place as Christmas music plays out of speakers attached to the Flemish-inspired buildings that surround the square.
There are more than 140 cabin stalls here, selling everything from local crafts, toys, jewellery and socks to food stalls with oysters and beer pretzels (bretzels).
The tourist board is quick to highlight that it boasts almost twice as many stalls as nearby Lille.
Our daughters quickly found the colourful sweet section, full of candy canes, sour sticks and fluffy marshmallows — and best of all, none of it costs a fortune. We could buy candy canes for €1, making it hard not to purchase more.
Entry was free and the rides were cheaper, with shorter queues, than what we have become used to at popular destinations such as Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park.
It cost just €4 each for a Christmas tree bauble ride or to go on the carousel, compared with up to £9 per person on some attractions in London.
If you want to venture further afield, plenty of the small towns nearby feel just as festive
The festive fun continued around the corner on La Place des Heros, which has a mini market full of lights and booths in the shadow of the Arras Belfry — a 16th century, 250ft tall Gothic building that was rebuilt between 1927 and 1931 after being destroyed in the First World War.
We climbed to the top of the tower — with the help of a lift to the 50th floor, followed by 40 steps — for an inspiring aerial view.
Arras can be reached via Eurostar and the French railway, but we travelled with DFDS Ferries, giving us the convenience to drive straight off the ship and providing more room to pack woolly hats, scarves and Christmas jumpers.
If you want to venture further afield, plenty of the small towns nearby feel just as festive.
We visited Bethune, which has a slightly smaller Christmas market, where we enjoyed cheese samples and dazzling views from its belfry.
This all made for picture-perfect memories that might have been loaded with sugar, but at least there were fewer people in the background.
GETTING THERE: DFDS ferry crossings start at £96 per car for up to four people, one way. See dfds.com.
Arras Christmas market is open until December 29, 2024.
STAYING THERE: A four-person family room at the Ibis Styles Arras Centre is from around £92 per night. See all.accor.com.
