Autumn is a busy time of the year for whiskey releases, but it also features the annual drop of the best beer for bourbon lovers: Goose Island Bourbon County Stout. Every November, the Chicago-based brewery unleashes a lineup of at least a half dozen high proof ales.
The stalwart ale was first brewed in 1992 in what was at the time an extreme experiment: aging an imperial stout in whiskey barrels. Barrel-aged stouts are now standard at breweries that embrace big beers, but Goose Island was the first and remains atop the field.
Goose Island is committed to innovation and collaboration when it comes to Bourbon County Stout Series. The standard, easy-to-find Original Stout sticks to a similar profile every year, but the brewery also produces five or six variants that incorporate special ingredients or highlight specific bourbon barrels.
Last year's lineup included Bananas Foster Stout, which was a lovely treat. But two variants in particular appealed to whiskey fans like me. My favorite of the bunch was aged in Eagle Rare 10 Year barrels for two years. Another cask-finished batch was aged Angel’s Envy straight bourbon barrels for a year before spending another 365 days in ruby port wine barrels.
For 2024, I zeroed in on two more barrel-focused bottles: Bardstown Cask Finish Stout and Bourbon County Brand Rare Stout aged in King of Kentucky bourbon barrels. Here’s how they stack up alongside this year’s flagship.
Courtesy of Goose Island
The heart of the Bourbon County family hits a familiar profile, but I always find—and usually appreciate—the year-to-year variation in the resulting beer. The 2024 edition was aged an average of 16 months in freshly-dumped barrels sourced from Four Roses, Buffalo Trace, Heaven Hill, and Wild Turkey. That’s an additional four months compared to the previous year. It’s also a hair stronger at 14.7 percent ABV.
To my delight, it's as good as any Original Stout I've tried. And I have notes, as well as fond memories, going back more than a decade. This bottle occasionally has a little heat, but this year's edition is silky smooth, with trademark flavors of vanilla, cherry cola, and dark chocolate.
Courtesy of Goose Island
Brand Rare Stout was my most anticipated bottle of this year’s run. It didn’t disappoint. Goose Island aged its Imperial Rye Stout, which is a bit sweeter than the Original, for a year in 2022 King of Kentucky bourbon barrels. Then, impressively, Goose Island transferred the beer into a fresh set of 2023 King of Kentucky barrels for another year. All that barrel exposure leaves this as the strongest beer in the lineup at 18 percent ABV.
That number caught me by surprise. The Rare Stout drinks like a big beer but isn't too intense when compared to the 14.7-percent standard. It’s rich with apple, cherry, and vanilla but also features bourbon flavors like brown sugar and leather. It’s the most balanced and easy-sipping of the lineup, with a subtle character to pick through and marvel at. This is the beer for whiskey aficionados.
Courtesy of Goose Island
Similar to last year’s Angel’s Envy Cask Finish, Bardstown Cask Finish Stout is aged for a year in Bardstown Origin Series Rye barrels. Then, following the same process as the rye, Bourbon County finishes in fresh barrels built from both oak and cherry wood. The final product, hitting 16 percent ABV, might just be my favorite.
Cherry wood and rye spice combine to create a bold and interesting profile. On top of the chocolate liqueur character from the stout, the beer offers waves of cherry and toasted oak. The big barrel character stands up to the underlying stout for a smooth and engaging drink. If you go out of your way to grab any variant, make it this one.
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