BAGUIO, Philippines – It isn’t the easiest place to find. Somewhere in Lualhati, tucked near the Presidential Mansion, you’ll question every turn you make. The building itself is unassuming, almost like it wants to keep the secret for those who truly seek it. But climb two flights of stairs, and suddenly, you’ve arrived!
The rooftop feels like a portal to another world. By 7:00 pm, the mountain breeze and darkness transport you deep into the Cordilleras. Then the dinner gong sounds, and the magic begins.
Chavi Romawac, a man whose life stories could fill books, takes the stage. Playing a gong with practiced grace, he signals the evening’s start. His younger son, Araw, dressed in a traditional bahag, begins to dance, his movements alive with heritage. Millie, Chavi’s partner and equal in vision, appears with their elder son Buhay, serving the first course with a warmth that feels like a hug.
This is Mountain Man’s Roofdeck Kitchen, a place where meals are stories, culture is preserved, and connections are made. Chavi, affectionately called “Mountain Man,” has led a life as layered as the flavors he creates. From decades as a drummer and songwriter to his role as a chef for MasterChef Philippines, Chavi has pursued one thing: authenticity. Millie, with her art management background and passion for sustainability, complements his vision perfectly. Together, they craft experiences that linger long after the last bite.
Tonight’s dinner, part of the Ibagíw Festival, celebrates Baguio’s creativity and resilience. Marie Venus Tan, co-chairman of the Creative Baguio City Council, captured the festival’s spirit in her message: “The Ibagíw Festival is a testament to the resilience and limitless creativity of Baguio’s people. It inspires a shared vision for our city’s flourishing cultural and artistic legacy.”
The curators of the evening, Rocky Cajigan, Jessica Faye Marino, and Herson Arcega, worked tirelessly to blend the festival’s themes with the Mountain Man experience, creating a celebration of art, food, and community.
The menu? A love song to the mountains and the people who call it home.
The evening began with the Mountain Man Danish, featuring Dontogan kinuday (smoked pork), Kiangan-inspired hinanglag flakes, grilled bell peppers, onion jam, and tungsuy (watercress)—a smoky, earthy tribute to the Cordillera’s bounty.
Next came the Storyteller’s Salad, a vibrant mix of Baguio greens—crisp lettuce, arugula, and spinach—tossed with seasonal fruits like strawberries and native pomelo. Local cheese added richness, while a bagoong (fermented fish) dressing delivered a subtle umami kick. Dedicated to local creatives, the dish celebrates the ties that bind Baguio’s artistic community.
The main courses unfolded like a feast of mountain stories. The Ibagiw Mountain Clambake, cooked over Cordillera river stones, featured shrimp, crab, mussels, clams, and corn, all nestled on a bed of watercress—a perfect blend of mountain ingenuity and coastal abundance.
The hinanglag pork belly, slow-cooked and enriched with sabeng (fermented rice and corn) from Bauko, paired beautifully with pigar-pigar nga usa (stir-fried venison) and salt-crusted fish baked over an open fire. These dishes celebrated traditional cooking techniques with contemporary finesse.
A chunky spread of local mushrooms, sabeng, Baguio Dairy Farm cheese, and a hint of truffle, served with soft multigrain bread, offered a comforting interlude.
For dessert, Perry’s Pleasure stole the show: grilled strawberries and peaches, homemade yogurt, candied sundried tamarillo (Spanish tomato), and a honey-whiskey glaze. Playful yet sophisticated, it mirrored the spirit of the night.
As the courses flowed, the stories deepened. Carlo Villafuerte’s textile creations, crafted from reclaimed threads and found objects, told tales of Baguio’s layered identity. Each piece stitched together mountain mornings, bustling markets, and quiet reflections, offering a deeply personal yet universal connection to the city’s soul.
Nearby, Perry Mamaril’s bamboo sculptures glowed with understated elegance. Shaped like marine life and softened with handmade paper, they embodied resilience and fluidity. Perry’s journey — from Balatoc’s mines to New York — infused his art with strength and grace, reflecting Baguio’s capacity to adapt and thrive.
Chavi and Millie aren’t just feeding people; they’re keeping the Cordillera’s soul alive. Their dinners feel like gatherings of old friends, even if it’s your first time. Each dish, each story, ties you to the land, its people, and the artistry that makes Baguio and the Cordilleras so alive.
So yes, the place isn’t easy to find. But once you’ve climbed those stairs, you’ll understand. This isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a journey, a home, and a celebration of what it means to live, create, and share in the mountains. – Rappler.com
