How to combat your winter ‘surface wrinkles’ – and the simple ‘pinch test’ that gives clues to skin health

DRY, cracked skin is one of the most common winter complaints, as we alternate from being buffeted by icy winds and hot blasts of heating.

But if you’re faced with a dull complexion and faint wreath of “surface wrinkles” around your forehead and eyes, dryness might may not be your concern.

These telltale signs could indicate your skin is dehydrated, according to Dr Anil Sharma, a medical doctor and dermatologist at Sharma Skin & Hair Surgery.

You may assume that dehydration and dry skin are one and the same thing, but “dehydrated skin isn’t the same as dry skin”, Dr Sharma notes.

“It occurs when your skin lacks water or hydration, and it can affect anyone – no matter your skin type, even those with oily or combination skin.”

While flaking, cracking and irritation can indicate dryness, the signs of dehydration can be more subtle.

The dermatologist says: “When your skin is dehydrated, it often looks dull and can show faint surface wrinkles.

“These dehydration lines, usually around the eyes, lips, and forehead, are your skin’s way of saying it’s not getting enough moisture.

“When your skin doesn’t have enough hydration, it loses elasticity, which can lead to premature signs of ageing.

“You might also notice dark circles under your eyes or a more tired, dull appearance, and your skin may become more sensitive.”

If you suspect your skin is lacking in water, there is a simple test you can do at home – dubbed the “pinch test”.

Dr Sharma explains explains how to do it and what to look out for.

“Gently pinch the skin on your cheek or the back of your hand,” he says.

“If it doesn’t bounce back quickly, or takes a few seconds to return to normal, it’s a sign that you might be slightly dehydrated.

“If the skin stays pinched and takes a longer time to return to normal, you could be severely dehydrated.

“While it’s not a guaranteed test, it’s a useful way to start thinking about how to keep your skin hydrated from the inside out.”

How to care for dehydrated skin

Rehydrating your parched skin is about what you do inside and out.

That means you need to be drinking enough water throughout the day, as well as using a “well-curated skincare routine”, Dr Sharma says.

“Ideally, adults should aim for six to eight glasses of water a day to keep things hydrated from within.

“Adding water-rich foods to your diet – think watermelon, cucumber, and celery – can also give your skin a hydration boost.”

As for your skincare, Dr Sharma recommends you choose products with specific ingredients.

“Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, which helps draw moisture into your skin, and ceramides, which are fantastic for reinforcing your skin’s barrier to lock in hydration and prevent moisture loss.

“Other great ingredients to keep an eye out for include glycerin, aloe, honey, and gentle exfoliants like lactic or citric acid.

“Just be sure to finish with an oil or moisturiser to seal in all that hydration, leaving your skin feeling plump and nourished.”

Other winter skin woes

When your skin is dry, it’s basically telling you that it’s in need of moisture, Dr Sharma says.

He explains: “Imagine your skin as a protective wall, with cells stacked together like bricks.

“The ‘cement’ that holds everything in place is a lipid-rich barrier that keeps your skin smooth, intact, and hydrated.

“But when this barrier is disrupted – whether from sun damage, over-cleansing, harsh scrubbing, underlying medical conditions, or the dry air and low humidity of winter – it can lead to moisture loss.

“The result? Dry, flaky, and cracked skin, often with irritation, itching, or even a burning sensation.”

Though dry skin is especially common in winter – as the epidermis is leeched of moisture by cold air and indoor heating – your age can also make you more likely to get rough, cracked and scaly skin.

“As we get older, our skin naturally becomes thinner and more sensitive, and its ability to produce oil slows down,” Dr Sharma adds.

“For women, the drop in hormones after menopause can also contribute to dryness, as it affects oil and sweat glands.

“Areas that are especially vulnerable to dryness include those with fewer oil glands, like the arms, legs, hands, and the middle of the upper back.”

Aside from these factors, frequent handwashing can strip away your skin’s natural moisture, while a lack of key vitamins such as A, D, niacin, zinc, or iron can also leave skin feeling parched.