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New in Marin: An artisan gelato shop and a cool coffee shop

Chilled confections are often savored as a refreshing escape from the heat, but Kentfield resident Brian Bowen launched his San Rafael gelato shop Daily Recess on the eve of winter by design.

Since October, Bowen has been making inventive, small-batch gelato at a pop-up shop in the Northgate Mall food court with his professional pastry chef girlfriend, Kristi Gauslow, whose impressive 15-year résumé includes stints at Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes Station and Murray Circle in Sausalito. While fine-tuning operations and streamlining systems, the pair are exploring options for a permanent location, which they hope to secure within the next year.

The gelato is crafted using a Carpigiani machine, which is known for producing an exceptionally smooth and creamy texture. It’s made with Clover organic milk and fresh produce sourced from San Rafael’s Thursday and Sunday farmers markets.

A rotating lineup of 10 unique flavors always includes at least three dairy-free sorbetto options. Limited-edition specials are introduced on the first Friday of the month and this month was pumpkin swirl cheesecake.

Recent flavor highlights include malted milk chocolate and nibs; ricotta and fig jam; melon lemon verbena; tangerinesicle; mint stracciatella; brown butterscotch pecan; pumpkin spice latte with hazelnut; maple and waffles; hibiscus ginger; chocolate sea salt; and peanut butter and chocolate pretzels.

Enjoy your single or double scoop in a freshly made waffle cone, atop espresso in an affogato or enhanced with house-made toppings like salted caramel, cookie crumble or caramelized rice crispy treats. Gelato is also available in pints to-go.

The no-ordinary triple vanilla combines Tahitian vanilla beans, vanilla paste and house-made vanilla extract. It shines in a thick shake, blended with organic milk, cream, cane sugar and sea salt. A seasonal apple pie milkshake blends three scoops of vanilla gelato, apple pie filling, caramel sauce and whipped cream.

For something warm, try a spiced hot chocolate with New Mexico hatch red chili and brûléed marshmallow whip.

Brown butterscotch pecan is one of the recent flavors at San Rafael gelato shop Daily Recess. (Courtesy of Daily Recess)

Bowen moved north from Orange County in 2006 to live and work in Napa Valley before settling in Kentfield 14 years ago. A seasoned chef, he spent many years managing and opening multi-unit restaurant concepts. When the pandemic forced a career shift, he left the industry, returned to school and transitioned to a full-time remote role as a software engineer.

But Bowen found himself missing the spark of innovation and personal connections from his culinary roots. Motivated to fill the void, he and Gauslow combined their expertise to establish a business where they could share their creativity and reconnect with the community.

Why gelato?

“With restaurants, the goal is for each guest to leave happy, but with ice cream, everyone does,” says Bowen, appreciating its universal appeal and the refreshing change of pace. “It’s a very fun and tasty outlet.”

Bowen considers the food court an ideal starting point.

“We’re passionate about creating more than just a gelato shop,” he says. “We want to build a community gathering spot that celebrates creativity, connection and, of course, joy.”

Stop by for a creamy indulgence from 1 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays and 1 to 7 p.m. Sundays at 5800 Northgate Drive in San Rafael. Bowen plans to open daily in the new year. Note: The shop will be closed for a holiday recess from Dec. 2 to 10.

Still need à la mode for your holiday pies? Pints are $2 off through Thanksgiving.

For the latest flavors and updates, follow @dailyrecessgelato on Instagram or visit dailyrecessgelato.com.

New coffee shop

For Ryan Okko, founder and owner of Endless Quest Roasters that opened last week in Corte Madera, the philosophy behind the name reflects his relentless pursuit of the next far-off locale to source strictly single-origin coffee beans.

“We work directly with the farmers and join them during the harvest,” says Okko, emphasizing his dedication to building strong relationships with producers and celebrating their work. These partnerships have connected him with growers in Colombia, El Salvador, Ecuador, Papua New Guinea, Ethiopia and beyond, resulting in a rotating selection of current-crop offerings.

Endless Quest Roasters opened in Corte Madera. (Courtesy of Endless Quest Roasters)

The first Endless Quest cafe debuted in Laguna Beach earlier this year, and Okko’s small-batch roasting facility and headquarters are based in Costa Mesa, where a third location is under construction.

The Corte Madera cafe presently offers four transparently traceable, premium coffee beans: Colombia Finca Santa Maria, Ethiopia Yirgz Koke, Guatemala HueHue and Mexico Decaf. Each underscores a distinct flavor profile that captures the unique characteristics of its origin.

These tasting notes come to life through a menu of carefully crafted beverages made with high-tech reverse osmosis-filtered water.

Pour-overs and espresso drinks are meticulously prepared with a precision-focused process.

“We’re nerdy about the way we do things,” Okko says. “Everything is measured. Shots are calibrated throughout the day, and timing changes as needed. It’s essentially learning to dance with the machine.”

Loose-leaf teas, ceremonial-grade matcha, a premium “more-spicy-than-sweet” hot cacao, cold brew and shakeratos round out the menu.

Organic milk is from Clover and nondairy options include oat and almond. Vanilla, lavender, brown sugar and honey simple syrups are made in-house.

While baked goods are not yet available, Okko will soon partner with a high-quality local baker.

A certified Q Grader, Okko also has a diploma in sensory training from the International Barista and Coffee Academy and a certification from the Specialty Coffee Association. His 11-year coffee-focused journey has taken him across the globe, and most recently to Newport Beach, where he ran a production roastery.

Why choose Corte Madera? Okko says he’s always loved Marin County.

“Coffee is good here. People here care about what they’re consuming,” says Okko about his interest in getting exposure in this market.

Endless Quest Roasters replaces Ohana Acai Cafe, which closed last August when the landlord chose not to renew the lease. (Ohana’s Fairfax location remains open.) The interior exudes a clean, minimalist Southern California vibe, with soft white walls, vibrant floral wall art, a textured geometric counter façade and overhead woven pendant lights.

Endless Quest Roasters is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily in the Market Place shopping plaza at 47 Tamal Vista Blvd. in Corte Madera. For more information, visit endlessquestroasters.com.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with news and recommendations and follow on Instagram @therealdealmarin for more on local food and updates on the launch of The Real Deal Marin restaurant search guide.

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