MANILA, Philippines – If you’re a tour organizer and you’ve advertised a trip to Mayoyao online, it’s likely that most people will take a pause before signing up for it than for, say, the more popular ones like Batad or Kiangan, Bangaan, and Hungduan. Together with Mayoyao, they comprise the five clusters of rice terraces in the Cordillera designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
“What’s in Mayoyao?” “Where is Mayoyao?” would be among the first set of questions. It’s high time this place steps out of obscurity and entice travelers to discover its wealth of natural wonders, rich history, and lively cultural traditions.
Recently embarking on an immersive weeklong journey through Mayoyao, I was able to unearth its fascinating culture and jaw-dropping landscapes. Along the way, I savored local delicacies and witnessed performances of traditional arts, all while being embraced by the genuine warmth of the community’s residents.
Mayoyao, along with Batad, Kiangan, Bangaan, and Hungduan, truly embodies UNESCO’s description of the rice terraces of the Cordillera as having “a landscape of great beauty that expresses the harmony between humankind and the environment.”
Under normal city conditions, strolling through the streets on a sun-drenched afternoon can feel quite a demanding endeavor. Well, up here in the highlands of Ifugao, walking through the snaking rice paddies hits different since it will make you feel like a character straight from a beautifully crafted film.
The picturesque paddy fields stretch out beneath a brilliant blue sky, creating a perfect backdrop. As we tread through quaint communities, we encountered a variety of intriguing locals: farmers diligently sowing their crops, village mothers skillfully weaving Ginallit, the customary Ifugao wrap-around skirt or tapis, and residents tending to their farm animals.
The terraced rice fields of Mayoyao cover five villages in the municipality. These are Chaya, Chumang, Magulon, Banhal, and Bongan. Despite registering more than 20,000 steps daily, we only covered Banhal and Bongan on foot.
The village of Banhal conjured memories of the Open Air Museum in Kiangan, Ifugao, from an earlier visit. I observed similarities along the way, including traditional houses and other examples of Ifugao culture laid out in the open akin to an outdoor museum.
After walking for more than an hour, we encountered a small group of weavers from the Mayoyao Women’s Organization, who graciously agreed to give a demonstration on loom weaving. A thousand steps later, we found ourselves resting on the lawn grounds of a tiny farmhouse. The friendly owners shared servings of sweet potatoes and brewed coffee with us while we gazed at the breathtaking view of the rice terraces.
On our fourth day, we then explored the village of Bongan. Leandro Elahe, a historian who also serves as a tour guide for visitors, accompanied us, making our walking tour feel like a class field trip by providing us with interesting tidbits along the way. This time we met villagers who showed us the traditional process of pounding rice as well as other farming methods.
During our free time, I would often walk from our accommodation, Mayoyao View Inn, which boasts a veranda overlooking the rice terraces, to the town center to watch a game of basketball or enjoy a cup of freshly brewed coffee — a must-try for any visitor in this part of Luzon, as Ifugao is known for its exceptional produce of arabica and robusta blends.
Not only did the rice fields of Mayoyao become fertile due to the frequent occurrence of rain, but they also benefited from a year-round supply of fresh water from the mountains. A number of these water sources come directly from towering waterfalls hidden in the lush forests.
We were fortunate to have hiked to a couple of the most stunning ones. The first one we explored is just a half-hour hike away, easily accessible from a trailhead that vehicles can reach. Tenogtog Falls derives its name from a native word loosely translated to “chopped.” In the old days, hunters would gather by the multi-tiered cascades of Tenogtog Falls after a challenging hunt to chop the meat of their catch and share portions among themselves.
In the face of the cold waters, I gave in to the lure of taking a dip into the pristine stream, as I also seek to relax my weary body after the arduous journey to Ifugao and the previous day’s afternoon trek. My decision to brave the icy waters was rewarded by a boodle feast prepared by our local guides, where they artfully arranged an array of traditional dishes on banana leaves, all set against the backdrop of the cascading waterfalls.
Detchie Enkiwe, the Mayoyao tourism officer, informed us that tourists can arrange a similar experience of having lunch by the waterfalls by informing the staff at the tourism office located at the municipal hall. “Of course, we will make sure to leave no trash and take only pictures to make sure the raw beauty of this place is preserved,” Detchie said.
The next day, another hike — a harder one, that is — took us to another waterfall, the A’pfaw Mahencha Falls.
The descent to the waterfalls from the scenic vantage point known as Khohang Garden is a demanding trek, as it requires a larger number of steps, totaling almost 550, compared to the easier trek going to Tenogtog Falls.
When you factor in the mountainous setting and the progressively thinner air, it’s no wonder that I arrived with unsteady legs. However, the A’pfaw waterfalls offer a breathtaking scene that makes it all worthwhile and instantly invites you into a profound meditation with nature. As my companions leaped and frolicked in the crystal-clear Gatorade green apple-colored waters, I opted to stay dry, settling into a moment of tranquility while gazing at the unraveling of wonderful nature around me.
In addition to our exploration of the rice terraces and waterfalls, we also set out to check several historical and cultural sites in Mayoyao. On this less tiring part of our trip, we were aided by the presence of the town’s cultural bearer and historian, Bobby Bongayon. During a lunch stop at the Mt. Nagchajan Historical Site, we had the pleasure of meeting the town mayor, Jimmy Padchanan Jr. Together, their stories captivated us with more revealing details about the rich history and fascinating customs of Mayoyao.
At Khohang Garden, which overlooks a panoramic view of the rice terraces, Bobby Bongayon hosted an engaging storytelling session, sharing captivating tales passed down through generations. Jhomaica Panangon, a staff member of Mayoyao’s Tourism Office, made us listen to a mesmerizing Hudhud chant.
The Hudhud, a mesmerizing art form of the Ifugao people, is rooted in folk narratives that have been chanted since the seventh century. This rich tradition has earned recognition from UNESCO as a vital part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Around 200 versions of the Hudhud are known to exist, exploring themes that encompass history, customary law, ancestral religious beliefs, and the legendary exploits of warriors. An elder, often a respected figure within the community, such as a historian or preacher, is known to perform the Hudhod normally during harvest season, when conducting a ritual or during a funeral. This extensive singing recital could span several days, reflecting the depth and significance of the story.
At Mt. Nagchajan, we examined the site where a battered band of Japanese soldiers under the command of General Yamashita made their last stand in the final days of World War II, from July 26 to August 9, 1945, marking the final battle between the Japanese and the Allied forces in the Philippines.
As a sea of clouds formed around us, we gathered on the paved grounds near the World War II “Battle of Mayoyao Ridge” historical marker, where Mayor Padchanan Jr. joined us, sharing more insights into the radiant local customs of Mayoyao. Following a simple yet filling lunch, the locals treated us to a cultural performance showcasing ceremonial and courtship dances, all adorned in their traditional garbs, while encouraging some of us to partake in the joyous celebrations.
Our few days in Mayoyao transformed into an experience that transcended mere sightseeing, engrossing us with both visuals to behold and new learnings. Residents of Mayoyao engage in their everyday routines on any typical day. But when guests arrive at their beloved community, expect to see them readily embracing the opportunity to share their stories and cherished traditions; after all, these are what give a place its character.
Being born and raised in a country rich with diverse cultural gems that often go unnoticed against the allure of postcard-perfect sights, the experience I had on this trip is the way I foresee my travels unfolding. Rather than merely dropping by for a quick photo op, staying just enough to achieve this kind of absorbing experience we had in Mayoyao deserves to be replicated in destinations all around the Philippines. Involving locals in tourism not only gives them a voice but also offers a platform to safeguard and share their unique intangible heritage.
Lesser known no more, Mayoyao should be included in your travel list. – Rappler.com
