An hour after the late afternoon high tide had peaked and the sun was dropping, my girlfriend Holly and I decided to make a run for it. Our four-mile dash was along Northern California’s Lost Coast—in a particularly gnarly section of it generally considered impassable. Stuffed with craggy rock outcroppings, gritty black sand beaches, and a mess of rushing creeks converging into thunderous, unruly surf, this far-flung shoreline was fast living up to its name.
Chuck Graham
As the tide continued to ebb, there were still mad surges sweeping up the beach. Along this wave-battered shoreline, you’re unlikely to run into anyone else. As for wildlife, it’s everywhere. Raucous seals and sea lions haul out along these beaches frequented by black bears and other scavengers accessing its clear creeks from densely forested canyons of the neighboring King Range.
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We navigated—well, ran—beneath the eroding bluffs along boulder-strewn beaches. At one point, we dashed into a playful river otter foraging along the inshore waters and diving back into the coastal shallows, happy with its crab catch. This moment slowed our pace a notch—reminding us to take it all in.
In a state lined with spectacular coasts from Big Sur to the Channel Islands and beyond, the Lost Coast is in a wildly breathtaking league of its own. If you haven’t yet heard of—or likely experienced—California’s Lost Coast, here’s what you need to know.
Chuck Graham
The Lost Coast is the most remote, roadless expanse in coastal California—almost all wild, with boundless natural wonders. Because of its abrupt, and towering mountainous topography hovering over the Pacific Ocean, in the early 1900s, it was deemed too steep, difficult and costly to build reliable roads along its daunting coastline. It’s remained that way ever since. There are a few private land ownings along its coast, mostly weathered cabins that have endured over time.
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The Lost Coast is about 150 miles south of the California-Oregon border. The undeveloped region encompasses parts of both Mendocino and Humboldt Counties. The most direct route is from Highway 101 to Shelter Cove beginning in Redway. From Redway, it's about a 40-minute (22-mile) drive to the Lost Coast on a very steep, windy road over the King Range topping out at just over 4,000 feet. Drive slowly and watch for downed trees and rockslides.
Chuck Graham
Late spring to October is generally considered to be the best time along the Lost Coast. Late spring through summer can produce a dense, persistent, and wet marine layer. Northwest winds are perpetual, but the winter storms of late autumn into early spring are in the rearview mirror.
Shelter Cove is the only coastal town within the Lost Coast. From car camping to coastal resorts, there’s plenty to choose from. The same goes for brewhouses and restaurants—all boasting incredible views of the Lost Coast. Fishing, kayaking, and hiking options are plentiful.
South of the Lost Coast is Mendocino. Lots of B&Bs, great wineries, and some of the best kayaking in the Pacific await visitors in this coastal village. There's fantastic tidepooling and hikes along the nearby bluffs and redwood forests. An easy stroll out to the Cabrillo Lighthouse also shouldn’t be missed.
Chuck Graham
For adventurers seeking pure solitude in some of California’s best remaining coastal wilderness, the Lost Coast is not to be missed. The classic route along this shore from Mattole Campground south to Shelter Cove is the most well-traveled track. A wilder southern portion, running from Shelter Cove to Usal Beach and beyond is guaranteed solitude, but requires more bushwhacking and navigation. Here are seven important pointers for backpackers and hikers planning a Lost Coast adventure.
To acquire a permit for the Lost Coast, go to Recreation.gov. Peak season for walking the Lost Coast is May through September, so get your summer permits early—at least six months in advance. Permits can also be attained at the BLM Arcata Field Office (707) 825-2300, or the King Range Office in Whitethorn (707) 986-5400.
Local shuttle services are available for drop-offs and pickups for one-way hikes. Lost Coast Adventure Tours provides both shuttle services and great guided hikes in the area. Mendo Insider Tours specializes in shuttle services between local airports and other venues and small-group tours throughout nearby Mendocino County.
Chuck Graham
There are many variables to consider while experiencing the Lost Coast. Northern California is exposed to the elements (the neighboring King Range averages 100 inches of rain per year) and can fluctuate throughout the day. Winter is cool and wet. Spring is green, lush, and beautiful, but also gusty—and occasionally gale force along the exposed coast. Summer comes with billowing, dewy fog and persistent overcast skies. Early fall is arguably the best window to visit the Lost Coast, generally offering the mildest weather with light crowds. Stay abreast of the weather with the National Oceanic Atmospheric Association and Windy.
Many backpackers and day hikers have become trapped, even pinned against the bluffs and cliffs because they didn't gauge the incoming tides. The area's first four-mile "impassable" section runs from Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek. The second (also about four miles) runs from Miller Flat to Gitchell Creek. At each section, it can be several hours before the tide turns and the impassable becomes passable.
Chuck Graham
If you're backpacking the classic Mattole to Shelter Cove route (which passes about a dozen creeks) you won’t need to haul much water, but a reliable water filter is essential. So is sunscreen, lip balm, hat, sunglasses, a rain jacket to shield against frequent curtains of moist fog as well as chance showers, and a small burner stove. A Crazy Creek chair is a nice addition, too. A good portion of the coastal route is on black sand beaches where you can hike barefoot, but bring trail shoes or hiking boots for rougher patches or detouring inland into the King Range. Consider hiking poles for picking through loose cobble and binos for spotting wildlife. Wilderness Press offers a very detailed and handy map of the Lost Coast.
Beyond the campground and parking lot, the Lost Coast is all pack in, pack out. Leave it cleaner than you found it, and bury all human waste at least six to eight inches deep and a minimum of 200 feet from water sources.
Chuck Graham
Wildlife viewing opportunities are abundant along the Lost Coast on land and sea. Between Mattole Campground and Randall Creek, expect to see spotted harbor seals at Windy Point, a growing northern elephant rookery just below the old Punta Gorda Lighthouse, bellowing sea lions at Sea Lion Gulch, and keep a lookout for rambunctious river otters. Mule deer and bobcats are commonly spied roaming around the coast’s adjacent grassy meadows, while turkey vultures, golden eagles, and osprey routinely patrol the coastal skies. Yep, this is black bear country, and fellow scavengers like raccoons are here too. That means bring a bear cannister for your food, tuck it in the flotsam of driftwood away from your campsite, and rest easy at night if you're camping out.
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