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Working in menswear for much of my career, I've picked up the nuances regarding terminology and the key distinctions between classic garments: jacket (blazer) vs jacket (outerwear), chinos vs khakis, turtlenecks vs mocknecks vs rollnecks—the list goes on. Some terms have clear-cut definitions, while others are a bit grayer and open to interpretation. One obvious yet puzzling concept is the difference between button-down vs button-up shirts.
I often hear guys refer to any shirt with a full-button front and a placket as a button-down, but that’s not quite right. Every button-down shirt is a button-up, but not every button-up shirt is a button-down. You following? While there's a lot of overlap, there are occasions and settings where one style fits better. Let me explain. Here's your guide to button-down vs button-up shirts for men.
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The primary difference in the button-up vs button-down battle is pretty simple: button-down shirts have a button-down collar, with buttons at the ends of each collar point to keep it in place. This style dates back to the late 19th century when British polo players began fastening their collars to prevent them from flapping in the wind. A button-up shirt is any shirt that buttons up the front without necessarily having a buttoned collar. A button-down shirt is generally more casual than a button-up shirt. Stay with us.
A key distinction worth noting: Stylists and fashion editors often refer to button-up shirts as "dress shirts" or "collared shirts." This is because "button-up" includes a range of styles, from flannel shirts to camp collar shirts or even band collar shirts. However, a classic button-up shirt generally implies a dressier look, so a dress shirt and a button-up shirt are essentially interchangeable in most contexts. When someone mentions a button-up, they’re likely picturing a classic dress shirt with sleeves and a crisp collar—the type of shirt you wear with tailoring. There are outliers, such as a button-up shirt in thinner, more structured flannel or chambray.
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A button-down shirt is always a button-up, but it’s inherently a bit more casual, dialing down the formality. You can always wear a button-up dress shirt with tailoring, but it tends to look too stiff or elevated for pairing with more relaxed pieces like cardigans or chore jackets. On the flip side, a button-down (collar) shirt works well with an unstructured suit or blazer but would be out of place with evening wear, as it leans too casual for that level of formality. You can rock with it with tailoring, knits, or anything else. It leans a bit more versatile than a classic button-up shirt (or dress shirt). Which leads me to:
Perhaps the most iconic, trending, and versatile of the button-down shirts (drum roll, please) is the Oxford shirt. In our recent fall/winter fashion trends guide, we highlighted these textured cloth button-downs as a style staple worth wearing now—and always. A structured button-up dress shirt has its place with suits and formal attire but often feels out-of-place for everyday wear. In contrast, the classic Oxford shirt is equally timeless yet far more versatile, offering a casual-meets-dressy aesthetic with a preppy vibe that gains character with each wear. Its button-down collar and typically heavier, more durable weave make it a natural match with blazers or leather jackets. Though often seen in trend reports, the Oxford never goes out of style. While white or light blue are classic, don’t hesitate to choose other, bolder colors or patterns that resonate with your style.
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Still, a button-down shirt doesn’t have to be an Oxford—it works just as well in chambray, utility-style fabrics, or any textile with a more textured feel. And when it comes to short-sleeve button-ups, aim for a button-down or a camp collar. A stiff, formal dress shirt doesn’t translate well to short sleeves, as the style inherently leans more formal, and short sleeves are anything but businesslike or wedding-appropriate. As for polo shirts, while they are collared, they’re not typically button-down (buttons on the collar points)—and they shouldn’t be. Variations with button-down collars do exist, but in my view, they look a bit odd. A polo stands on its own as a short-sleeve shirt with a two- or three-button placket and no need for a button-down collar.
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Generally speaking, a classic button-up shirt works best with a dressier, tailored look—think underneath a blazer, with a full suit, or with evening wear, and it naturally lends itself to a tie. On the more casual end, button-up shirts made from fabrics like lightweight flannel or chambray are versatile—pair them with a suit or blazer, with or without a tie, or tucked in on their own. Rock dressier button-up shirts with chinos, wool flannel, or suit trousers.
A button-down collar shirt works with almost any look, from smart casual to business casual, aside from the most formal occasions. If you're wearing a button-down with a full suit, stick to an unstructured, textured option instead of flat wool for a more relaxed vibe. It pairs beautifully with a silk knit or thicker wool ties for that classic, trad feel. A button-down can also be worn alone, layered under a cardigan, or styled with jeans, corduroys, or khakis—it functions as a wardrobe workhorse, especially in Oxford cloth (an essential, cornerstone shirt that suits all but the dressiest occasions).
Button-ups and button-downs form the foundation of every guy's well-rounded wardrobe, and with the wide variety, it suits every guy to own a few of each. To recap, as this is a lot to take in, please see a handy cheat sheet below. Own at least one of each style, and remember, each shirt’s aesthetic depends on your personality and style as much as the subtle collar detail itself.
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Yes, always.
Sometimes—only if the collar has buttons.
Button-down shirts lean more casual, while button-up shirts (in the classic menswear sense) lean dressier. Button-downs are also often more versatile—they can be Oxfords or short-sleeved.
Button-up shirts can also include elevated flannels and chambray shirts.
Should you leave the buttons on a button-down collar undone? You can, but it doesn’t really suit the shirt’s design unless you’re intentionally going for a devil-may-care vibe. A button-down shirt is inherently casual enough as it is, so unfastening the collar buttons can come across as sloppy or trying too hard. In most cases, there’s really no good reason to.
When in doubt, invest in a button-down (Oxford shirt) and one crisp, solid white or light blue button-up dress shirt.
In addition to writing for Men's Journal, I've covered topics ranging from menswear and styling to fragrances, watches, and grooming for InsideHook, Robb Report, GQ, Esquire, and Men's Health. I served as the market editor at Esquire for several years, scouring the industry for the best garments and goods that were not only worth the investment but also made for compelling stories and good advice for our readers—including, yes, a whole lot of shirts (button-down and button-up). I also conceptualized and wrote many fragrance stories for Esquire and most of the grooming pages.
I've always tried to add a timeless element to whatever I write, because while trends can be interesting and relevant to a degree, my heart has always been drawn to more perennial guidance and themes. My obsessive-compulsive tendencies are both a blessing and a curse, and while I often delve into researching items to the point of exhaustion, it's this approach that often positions me as a go-to person for advice. Whether it's about coats, colognes, or turntable needles, people recognize that I've done the legwork. I enjoy inspiring others to seek out their unique interests in things that might improve their lives.
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