Squash is at its peak this time of year and is a perfect base for secret sauces and/or unexpected ingredients that will make a meal memorable. When it comes to flavor, it really is all about the secret sauce — that unexpected ingredient or topping that changes the whole dish. It doesn’t have to be an expensive gourmet item or even take much time to elevate the ordinary dish into the finger-licking category. When foodies talk about the complexity of a flavor, they are talking about that secret sauce, ingredient or topping.
An example of an unexpected ingredient is anchovies in a ragu sauce or sautéed with capers and garlic for chicken thighs. For a secret sauce, top sautéed Swiss chard with a sprinkle of soy sauce and balsamic vinegar, and a small pat of unsalted butter. The unexpected flavor is subtle but memorable. Get ready for someone to ask where you bought the chard.
With so many different varieties of squash in the markets, it’s hard to walk by without buying at least one, maybe two. If you happen to pick up a butternut squash, cut it into wedges — no peeling necessary, you can eat the skin. Into a mortar and pestle, toss some cardamom seeds, cumin, garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil; mash to a paste and coat the squash. Roast until fork-tender and caramelized, about 25 minutes. If, like me, you’re only cooking for two, you might have enough left for this recipe below.
This recipe is just slightly adapted from Meike Peters’ amazing cookbook “365: A Year of Everyday Cooking and Baking.” Peters calls for butternut squash, but you can substitute it for another winter squash, such as red kuri, kabocha, hubbard or sugar pumpkin. Don’t substitute it for a squash or pumpkin that has stringy flesh like spaghetti squash or field pumpkin. Field pumpkins have a watery, stringy and sometimes bitter taste. They’re great for carving jack-o’-lanterns because of its thin shell, but not great for eating.
The combination of orange-fleshed squash and yellow split peas makes a visually beautiful autumnal golden soup. The topping of sautéed red onions and whipped Gorgonzola cheese gives it a robust, tangy, slightly sweet flavor. The maple syrup and balsamic vinegar may seem like too much sweetness, but it really works with the earthy flavor in the soup, the creamy mascarpone and tang of the Gorgonzola. Talk about complexity of flavor!
Claudia Alexander, a resident of Marin County, has been happily cooking for family and friends for more than three decades. She has a weekly food blog, sweetbynurture.com. You can contact her at sweetbynurture@gmail.com.
Autumn Squash Soup
Makes 2 quarts
Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 minced garlic cloves
1 cup diced yellow onion
1 cup yellow split peas
¾ pound peeled, seeded and diced squash — butternut, red kuri, kabocha, hubbard or sugar pumpkin
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 bay leaf
2 whole cloves
1 tablespoon dried marjoram
Topping
2 medium red onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons mascarpone
2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Directions
Place a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add olive oil to coat the bottom and then add the yellow onion and garlic. Stir occasionally for about three minutes, until the onion starts to glisten and soften. Now, add the squash and split peas, stir and cook for one minute. Add the bay leaf, cloves and marjoram, stir to combine and, when fragrant, about two minutes, add the stock. Bring to a low boil and turn the heat down to a medium simmer. Cook for 35 minutes, until the split peas are soft.
While the soup is cooking, make the toppings.
Measure out into a medium bowl the milk, mascarpone and Gorgonzola cheese. Whip with a fork, until the liquid is incorporated, and you have a smooth texture, then add the salt, taste and adjust as needed. Remember that the soup stock will be a bit salty when adjusting the topping. Set aside and cook the onions.
Place a medium sauté pan over medium-low heat and add a splash of olive oil. Swirl to coat the bottom of the pan and add the sliced red onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions lose their shape and are soft after about seven minutes. Turn off the heat and add the maple syrup and balsamic vinegar. Stir to combine. Set aside.
Discard the bay leaf and cloves from the soup. Using an immersion blender, puree half the soup, leaving some chunky pieces for texture. Taste the soup and adjust seasonings as necessary. When ready to eat, warm up the soup, pour into bowls and top with the onions and a dollop of the whipped cheese. Serve alongside a salad and bread.
— From Meike Peters’ “365: A Year of Everyday Cooking and Baking”
