MANILA, Philippines — When you hear the name Gordon Ramsay, what comes to mind?
Maybe it’s an idiot sandwich, or an angry British man screaming in the kitchen. For fans of Hell’s Kitchen (like myself), maybe it’s the world-famous Beef Wellington, the celebrity chef’s iconic main that’s often “served raw!”
Thankfully, at least here in the Philippines, we’re only and finally getting the latter (and a medium-rare one at that) — plus other Ramsay mainstays — on the second floor of Newport World Resorts’ Grand Wing in Pasay City.
The world-famous Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill opened on August 31, with a reservations-only guest list that has been filled up as soon as the restaurant’s arrival was announced last August 20. Hype aside, what can diners expect from Gordon Ramsay’s first foray into Metro Manila?
Upon entering, you’ll be greeted by a framed portrait of Gordon Ramsay at the entrance, looking down at you like you’ve just been eliminated from the show.
Right in front is a cozy lounge area by the beautiful bar, where you can watch handcrafted cocktails made in front of you. We enjoyed a zingy Agave Sunset before our meal — a bright, fruity, and creamy cocktail made from tequila, Campari, pineapple and lime juice, and pasteurized egg whites.
There are private rooms on the right — fit for groups of 10 or more — and a medium-sized dining space on the left designed like an English pub: forest green leather sofas, cherry oak tables, paneling, and reddish brick walls. It is currently an 85-seater restaurant, with expansion plans in tow.
In Hell’s Kitchen fashion, the restaurant also features an open kitchen where you can witness chefs at work and at the pass. Service is seamless, and the energy is more relaxed and not uptight. After all, it isn’t a fine dining restaurant; they call it “refined casual.”
It’s an intimate place perfect for special occasions and dates, with prices that fit the premium bill, being that it is a global celebrity brand. Some dishes’ portions can be fit for sharing.
We tried the new Bar & Grill Seafood Tower, available starting October 1. Presentation-wise, it is a visual stunner — three levels of the freshest seafood are served in dry ice smoke, with strings of lato (local seaweed kelp), lemon, and a trio of sauces on the side: mignonette, cocktail sauce, and balsamic vinaigrette.
It’s a premium collection of oysters, King Crab legs, and Boston lobster imported from abroad, as well as tiger prawns, poached clams, and mussels sourced from local regions. Everything was supple, fresh, and meaty.
We also tried the Classic Caesar Salad (P650) of crisp lettuce, shavings of 36-months aged parmesan, a slow-cooked egg, whole anchovies, and crunchy croutons. This was an unexpected favorite — the authentic punchy Caesar dressing brought umami to the table, complemented by the tangy anchovies and salty parmesan, tied together by the creaminess of the runny egg yolk.
Raw beef fillet, egg yolk confit, gherkin, and pickled shallots come together for the Aged Steak Tartare (P1,650), which is served with thin, crispy housemade potato crisps that are almost translucent. They use Black Opal MB7 Wagyu Steak, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth, tender tartare with hardly any chewiness. It does have a slight sweetness to it, somewhat like a sweet pickle relish.
Other appetizers include:
They also serve caviar and oysters.
It’s not an English meal without Fish and Chips!
Albeit pricey, Gordon Ramsay’s good-for-sharing Fish and Chips (P1,999) is a huge slab of golden-brown, crispy-fried, locally sourced pink grouper: flaky, thick, and moist. It’s served with malt vinegar, Koffman’s perfectly fried thick-cut chips — crispy on the outside and thick and fluffy on the inside — a side of crushed peas (which were surprisingly tasty), and a mild tartare sauce.
We also tried the Iberico Pork Secreto (P1,988), which was soft and slightly fatty enough to cut through and had a wood-smoked, sweet, apple-like taste that was addictive, complemented by the savory peppercorn gravy it’s served with. This is good for sharing.
What about Gordon’s Signature Beef Wellington (P3,888?) At such a hefty price point, there is much to be talked about — it is the chef’s most famous dish, after all.
For its Philippine and Malaysia versions, the prosciutto inside was removed, management said. However, the same management said that customers who have visited the restaurant’s other Southeast Asian branches said that Manila version is “the best that they’ve had yet.”
Gordon’s Beef Wellington is a labor of love, taking three days to prepare —and it comes with a lofty price to match. Despite being a single fillet, the generously thick cut could be shared between two diners who’ve already had a few appetizers.
It looked as appealing as it does on the show — a perfectly medium rare slice of MB7 Wagyu beef fillet, encased in mushroom and truffle duxelles and a baked puff pastry, served with creamed potatoes (which were airy and fluffy), carrots, and red wine jus.
Each element of the dish is expertly executed — the puff pastry is golden and crisp, the mushrooms are finely minced, and the steak is, without a doubt, the softest and most tender piece of meat I’ve had in years. A lot was going on per bite, with the duxelles’ strong, fragrant flavor standing out. While this complexity might be an exciting experience for some, for me, experiencing a high-quality steak Wellington-style was something I was glad to try once.
Other mains and sides include:
For dessert, we indulged in the famous Sticky Toffee Pudding (P550), and it was worth the price — if only for the butterscotch sauce alone. Sweet, silky, and buttery, with rich caramel undertones, the sauce elevated the sponge-like cake, especially paired with the baby scoop of vanilla ice cream. I’m a sucker for that hot-and-cold contrast combo!
We also tried the new dessert available starting October 1 — the Flambéed Baked Alaska. It features a combination of chocolate and honeycomb ice cream with a thin layer of flourless chocolate cake, all encased in a dome of thick, fluffy Italian meringue, torched with rum.
Mesmerizing presentation aside, this was a dessert I easily got on board with. The dark chocolate ice cream was rich without being overly sweet, and the subtle rum aftertaste added a complexity that perfectly balanced the sweetness of the meringue.
Other desserts include:
For groups of six or more, a deposit of P1,000 per person is required when making a reservation. Private dining room reservations require a 50% deposit of the minimum spend amount. For lunch, this is P3,000+ per person or P30,000+ for a group of 10. For dinner, it is P5,000+ per person or P50,000+ for 10.
The restaurant’s dress code is smart casual. Be prepared to spend at least P2,000 for two — mentally prepare yourself to splurge for the novel experience.
Guests can make a reservation via Newport World Resorts’ website. Th restaurant is open for lunch from 12 pm to 3 pm on weekdays, and from 11 am to 3 pm on weekends. For dinner, they’re open from 6 pm to 11 pm. – Rappler.com
