By adding “& Region” to the title of its third edition, the 2024 Michelin Guide Toronto recalls the global culinary bible’s roots as a guidebook for Belle Époque motorists.
After all, three of the four new starred restaurants announced on Sept 18 are located about 30, 60 and 90 non-rush-hour minutes by car, respectively, from the foot of Yonge Street. Half of the four new Bib Gourmand designees are set outside the Big Smoke — the designation recommends establishments that serve three-course meals for no more than about $55 per person — with non-Hogtown eateries also accounting for just over half of the 15 new Michelin-recommended dining venues that earned neither Stars nor Bibs.
Here’s how the 2024 guide’s “& Region” selections break down according to Michelin’s incognito inspectors:
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “[Hexagon] could get by on looks alone with its sliding patio doors, wrap-around terrace, and an interior that is at once cool and casual. But for Chef Rafael Covarrubias, he’s got a lot more in mind. The menu reads familiar — beef tartare, oysters, fish — but what emerges from the kitchen are beautiful, soigné works that are refined, original, and substantial. Potato foam, brown butter, and roe are clever pairings with Hokkaido scallop. Pasta is a highlight, like corn agnolotti with Manchego, but so too is the short rib. And for dessert, cheesecake is surprisingly light and savoury thanks to strawberries and a nutty almond cookie.”
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “This 42-acre destination in the picturesque Niagara region is the full experience. A restaurant, winery, orchard, farm, and bakery, Restaurant Pearl Morissette is a powerhouse. With great pride for Canadian ingredients and respect for the seasons, Chefs Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson make the most of their surroundings to enhance their spontaneous tasting menu’s dishes, as in free-range pork, slow roasted over a peach wood fire, glazed with sweet potato miso, and plated with hazelnut jus. Yes, there is plenty of wine available, but don’t miss the accomplished juice pairing either. The meal may conclude sweetly, with a buckwheat sable cookie, honey whipped cream, honeycomb-shaped tuile, and honey ice cream. Meanwhile, the warm team keeps the tasting moving at a friendly clip.
Cuisine: Chinese, contemporary
Inspector notes: “Located in charming Creemore, north of Toronto in Simcoe County, find this culinary landmark housed in a chic space that was formerly a gas station. Run by Chef Jeremy Austin and his wife, Cassie, The Pine is a distinct dining experience that is informed by the chef’s years working in China. A meal here draws on authentic flavors delivered with striking creativity and conviction on an ever-evolving menu. A gorgeous tea egg kicks things off; the Sichuan-favorite dried fried string beans arrive as a cold salad; and the carrot jiaozi is a delightful dumpling; but those are merely a few of the treasures on offer.”
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “This restaurant has carved out its place as one of (downtown Hamilton’s) most popular destinations. Exposed red brick, dangling greenery, and a garage door that opens to the patio make for a come-as-you-are atmosphere. The menu is nicely curated, with cooking that takes its cues from across the globe. Think tuna crudo with citrus ponzu or a riff on Chinese egg rolls that features chickpea potato curry and a ginger-herb dip. Larger plates lean into comfort cooking, like steak frites or pasta. Go for the Cornish hen, which arrives perfectly roasted, glazed in rhubarb barbecue sauce, and paired with a mustardy potato salad. No visit is complete without the Basque cheesecake, a wedge that manages to be decadent, creamy, and light all at once.”
Cuisine: Indian, South Indian
Inspector notes: “It’s a good thing this South Indian restaurant takes up multiple bays (in the Derry Village Square shopping plaza). If the dining room were any smaller, the wait to get in would be endless. Reservations are recommended for this landmark that is the undisputed champion of dosas, offered in dazzling variety like nowhere else in the region. The signature Mysore Bhaji Dosa packed with fantastic aloo masala is a good place to start for first timers, who will question whether they can finish the whole thing before doing just that. But there’s more: Idlys, vadas, and uttapam are made fresh, served hot, and come with warm sambar and refreshing chutneys. All of this food comes and goes in a rapid blur, and return visits are planned before you’re out the door.”
Cuisine: Modern
Inspector notes: “Known for their time at Sumac & Salt, Chef Joel Gray and Hannah Harradine apply a heartfelt approach by welcoming diners into their own home in Grey County for a charming, intimate experience. Here, an interior kitchen and a barbecue are used to create a meal that spotlights excellent local products. Everything is lovingly presented by the team, with the chef offering explanations of many of the courses. Standouts include pieces of coal-roasted beets arranged with pickled pumpkin and dabs of creamy pumpkin seed purée. Trout brined with spruce tips is slow-smoked then quick-seared and presented with Ontario potatoes, fiddlehead ferns, and trout roe. Braised lamb neck stuffs a wild leek raviolo dressed with a preserved green tomato jus, giving a subtle hint of spice.”
Cuisine: Steakhouse
Inspector notes: “Every city needs a restaurant that’s easy for walk-ins, doesn’t take itself too seriously, and cooks with gusto. Focusing on house-made charcuterie and excellent steaks grilled over charcoal, this casual butcher delivers flavors in spades. One could make a meal out of superb slices of bresaola tinged with warm Christmas spices, melting sheets of mortadella studded with pistachios, and spicy salami lifted with orange zest. Steaks are sizeable, best shared with friends, and thrive with sauces like au poivre and piri piri. There are vegetables, too, like a cold green bean salad dressed with anchovy vinaigrette and toasted pine nuts. On the way out, check the surrounding fridges for take-home goodies like pork ragu, guanciale, and prime steaks.”
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “Located a mere hour (west of) Toronto, this historic 19th-century Cambridge estate has long been something of a special retreat in Ontario. The mansion sits on 75 acres with a spa, walking trails, culinary gardens, and, of course, its signature restaurant. A stately interior with white tablecloths and a well-heeled staff fit the aesthetic. Chef Jason Bangerter has led this kitchen since 2013 and cooks with a kind of familiar French classicism. Think warm lobster with English peas and Champagne velouté or an indulgent foie gras parfait paired with a superb slice of warm, buttery brioche. A lengthier chef’s tasting offers a comprehensive look at the day’s menu. To drink, the wine list is an impressive collection of top producers and older vintages.”
Cuisine: Turkish
Inspector notes: “On name alone, you can bet that nobody leaves this restaurant hungry. Kebabs charred over glowing coals, meats spinning on a spit, and fluffy, dome-like rounds of pita cooked in a wood-burning oven are served here in abundance. Such is the appeal of this Vaughan favorite that has fed local families well for years. In fact, it’s not uncommon to see large groups huddled around a feast that covers every corner of the table. Tiny poached beef dumplings coated in a garlicky yogurt sauce (kayseri mantısı) could be a meal of their own. Flatbreads topped with everything from tomatoes to ground beef add to the carb-loading. The menu is lengthy, but servers are quick to make suggestions. There’s rarely room for dessert, but there’s always a place for hot tea.”
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “This Victorian house in charming Dundas has been a fixture of the city’s dining scene since 2010. No doubt, countless birthdays and anniversaries have been celebrated under the talented wings of chef-owner Fraser Macfarlane, who offers a short but poignant menu that stays well within the boundaries of familiar, upscale dining. Beautifully seared sea scallops arrive in a pool of corn puree with bacon butter sauce. There’s duck breast from Quebec, glazed in lavender and thoughtfully paired with kale, pear chutney, and scallion pancakes. There’s also grilled tenderloin, halibut with tarragon vin blanc, and lemon tarts lined with red currant jam. It’s all very friendly and delightful, in a space carefully managed by a team that’s much of the same.”
Cuisine: Indian
Inspector notes: “There’s a lot to take in at this colorful Indian restaurant, located in the frenzy of (the Square One) shopping district. For one, the menu covers extensive ground and features the familiar dishes you’d expect to see, alongside more curious creations like Chettinad chicken tacos and panipuri shots. Special weekend events get rowdy with live music and dancing. But for all the flash and the noise, there’s substance here too. Curries like the lamb Roganjosh are rich and hearty, and vegetable specialties like paneer cooked in a serious onion and tomato sauce pack volumes of flavor. Even those Chetinnad chicken tacos are surprisingly convincing. Servers might ask how comfortable you are with spice levels. Ask for spicy — and a side of raita for insurance.”
Cuisine: Contemporary
Inspector notes: “You could spend the afternoon at this expansive winery in Niagara wandering the vineyards and hanging by the outdoor sparkling bar. Or, you could make a beeline for a table with Chef Frank Dodd. Since 2006, he has spearheaded the property’s culinary arm, sourcing from nearby farms and paying close attention to the seasons. The menu offers a two and three course prix-fixe and has wide appeal: Gin-cured smoked salmon with warm potato pancakes is an elegant start before digging into heartier entrees like maple-brined grilled pork chops, corn and chorizo stuffed quail, and scallops with sweet pea and mascarpone ravioli. Lunch is the best time to drop by so you can sit on the patio, look out across the vines, and take in the setting.”
Cuisine: Japanese, sushi
Inspector notes: “Value is something of a tricky term when it comes to sushi, which can cost almost as much as a ticket to Japan these days. But in an unassuming Markham (strip mall) dominated by an auto repair shop, those looking to scratch the omakase itch without breaking the bank are in for a treat. The space is true to its name, a calming, tasteful blend of wood slats and attractive lighting with a chef’s counter as well as tables further back. Fish from Japan arrives multiple times a week; the rice is warm and finely vinegared; and chefs work with precision and diligence. They keep the toppings fairly traditional, limited mostly to a keen swipe of soy. Recent highlights include scallops and Murasaki uni from Hokkaido as well as some of the best nori in town.”
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