The Type XX, one of the most emblematic aviator’s chronographs and an icon of the Breguet collection, was relaunched last year with historical design cues and a top-notch manufacture flyback movement. The return of this historically significant model was marked by the launch of two watches, one military, the Type 20, and the other civil, the Type XX, both in stainless steel cases with classic matte black dials.
This year, Breguet expands the collection with a notably elegant pink gold edition, equipped with a blue dial and a ceramic bezel, the latter being a first in the collection. Like last year’s steel models, the Type XX Chronograph 2067 version takes cues from the Type XX’s storied past which goes back to the early 1950’s when the French Air Force commissioned the traditional Swiss manufacturer to produce an aviator chronograph with a flyback function – retour en vol – for the Service Technique Aéronautique. In addition to this commissioned military timepieces, Breguet began selling many civil Type XXs, likewise featuring a stainless steel case. While less known than these steel counterparts and much more exclusive, Breguet also produced three solid gold prototypes in 1955, dubbed either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version), in tune with the designation of the sought-after collection.
Emmanuel Breguet, VP and Head of Patrimony, sheds light on this unique chapter of the Type XX:
At the beginning of 1955, when Breguet had received the previous year a very large order from the French Air Force for 1,100 units of its “military Type 20″ and was busy delivering the first batch of 250, creativity was at its peak. Why not try making a luxury civilian model? Three interesting timepieces appeared, each featuring a gold case and a graduated rotating bezel with blue enameled numerals! Two were Type 20s (with 30-minute counters) and the third was a Type XX (15-minute counter). The differences don’t stop there: one was soon thereafter fitted with a yellow gold bracelet just a few months after its sale; while the other retained its leather strap with a gold folding clasp and the third was given a leather strap with a gold pin buckle. These three watches, that can best be described as experimental, were the only ones of their kind produced.”
This historical reference merges seamlessly with the distinctive elements of the civilian Type XX. The dial, now with an expressive sunburst blue hue, features a 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 9 o’clock as well as a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. Similar to the military-inspired version, the snailed and slightly recessed sub dials vary in size to enhance the dial’s dynamism and increase the legibility. The applied Arabic numerals, the hands, and the pilot’s triangle on the bezel are coated with a white luminescent material, ensuring optimal readability in low-light conditions.
Harmoniously complementing the elegant color scheme and framing the dial is the 12-hour graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold which is inspired by the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s. It features a blue ceramic ring with gold numerals that echo the ones on the dial.
The overall design mirrors the steel models, boasting a 42mm diameter and a thickness of 14mm, complemented by a water resistance to 100 meters. Inside ticks the in-house caliber 728— a sophisticated self-winding chronograph with an integrated flyback function. It includes a column wheel and a vertical clutch, and features a balance spring, escape wheel, and pallet-lever horns crafted from silicon, providing excellent anti-magnetic properties. The 728 offers a comfortable 60-hour power reserve.
Meticulous attention has been given to the movement’s aesthetics and decoration. Alongside the sunburst motif, you’ll find snailing, chamfering, circular graining, and other visible finishes. The column wheel is treated with a black coating that enhances both visual contrast and tribological performance. The sapphire crystal caseback showcases the movement’s intricate details, including the blackened gold oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft.
The watch comes with both an alligator leather strap and a NATO strap in midnight blue, with the latter accented by white piping. The interchangeable strap system allows for easy, tool-free removal of the leather strap; pressing the pushers beneath the lugs releases the two halves of the strap, while the NATO strap effortlessly slips between the two bars, fitting snugly under the case.
Pricing for the new Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 is marked at $37,900. Additionally, the watch will serve as the watchmaker’s highlight at this year’s WatchTime New York event, taking place at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall from October 18th to 20th, 2024. Here, Breguet will join over thirty-five other incredible brands to showcase some of the most impressive feats of horology of the year.
To learn more about the event and to purchase tickets, visit the WatchTime New York event site, here.
And to learn more about the new watch, visit Breguet, here.
