67 Pall Mall
Once a budding actor, Richard Hemming traded Shakespeare for chardonnay. Now, he's a leading figure in Singapore's wine scene.
One of the country's four masters of wine, Hemming oversees wine programs across Asia for 67 Pall Mall, a private club for wine lovers. Reflecting on his unlikely journey from aspiring actor to wine connoisseur, he shared how he transitioned from managing a wine shop to mastering the complex world of fine wine.
As an English literature and theater major in the UK, Hemming initially believed the stage was his calling. But after graduating in 2001, he applied for a job at a wine shop in London. By 2007, he was managing a branch at Notting Hill Gate.
"I had no wine knowledge at the time," Hemming said. "But it was a good company, and they had a management training scheme, so you would end up running your own shop within two years."
A crucial part of his training involved passing four levels of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust diploma, which offers a range of qualifications in various alcoholic beverages, from beginner to advanced.
During these formative years, Hemming discovered a passion for wine that extended beyond the basic training he received.
"It kind of happened by mistake," Hemming said. "I ended up learning a lot about wine."
This curiosity drove him to explore the industry further, leading him to Australia in 2008, where he gained hands-on experience in winemaking.
While in Australia, Hemming found a way to combine his passions for writing and wine when Jancis Robinson, a longtime wine correspondent for the Financial Times, offered him a writing role, which he continues to this day.
After his WSET diploma, Hemming started the lengthy process of becoming a master of wine in 2009, which took him six years.
"The master of wine qualification is strictly aimed at professionals," Hemming told BI.
Becoming a master of wine involves passing three stages, including a series of theory and practical exams, and completing a detailed research paper about the study of wine. For Hemming's research paper, he analyzed nearly 30,000 wine books published over 100 years in the UK, where he studied publishing trends and topics.
The process can cost over 23,000 pounds, or around $30,000, for candidates in the UK and Europe and over $19,000 for North American candidates, per the UK-based Institute of Masters of Wine.
Just qualifying to take the examinations is a significant hurdle.
"To even register, you must have a reference from your employer saying that you are working in a wine role," Hemming said, along with a recommendation from another master of wine.
Passing the master of wine qualification is another barrier to entry, with fail rates remaining "unfortunately incredibly high," Hemming told BI. When the examination was first introduced in 1953, only 28% of candidates passed, according to the institute.
Years ago, Hemming compared the title to the "Oscars of the wine world."
Even seven decades later, the program is still difficult to complete. In June, 145 people sat for the first round of the assessment. Meanwhile, 10 finished the program this year, joining Hemming and over 400 others as official masters of wine.
In 2019, Hemming relocated to Singapore with his wife, who had taken on a teaching role. Already a member of 67 Pall Mall London, he was invited by the club's founder, Grant Ashton, to help establish its Singapore branch, which soon evolved into a full-time position.
Now, Hemming works with marketing, events, and the company's cellar — which includes 6,000 bottles in Singapore. He also assists with the company's regional pop-up locations and those in the works, including Hong Kong and Australia. And he continues contributing to various trade outlets, including the FT, and has authored several books about food and wine.
