I spent 77 hours traveling from California to DC by train. It was worth it, but there are a few things everyone should know before hitting the rails for a long ride.

The California Zephyr didn't have WiFi on board, and cell service was poor or nonexistent going through the Sierra Nevada mountains and parts of Nevada, Colorado, and Nebraska.

Luckily I had some downloaded movies and reading materials, which helped pass the time when I couldn't use the internet.

I don't think you can dependably work remotely from the train. Even when I was on the Cardinal line, which offers WiFi, I found the service cut in and out frequently.

When I boarded the California Zephyr at the first stop of the line in Emeryville (right across the bay from San Francisco), I was able to pick my seat.

I made sure to take advantage of it because the seat you pick matters in terms of views.

If you want to see San Francisco Bay, Donner Lake, and the Rocky Mountains, sit on the left side. But the right is better if you prefer being up close to the Colorado River.

Whichever side you pick, you can always go to the observation car for even better views.

Thankfully, the train cars are air-conditioned in the summer. But that can also make them quite chilly, especially at night.

I came equipped with some thermal leggings and a puffy jacket.

Make sure to wear clothes that you're comfortable sitting in for long periods of time. And I recommend bringing a change of clothes (or at least an extra shirt) if you're traveling for multiple days.

Everyone wants to be in the observation car during the most scenic stretches of the Zephyr's route (especially through the Rocky Mountains), making it tricky to find a seat.

If it's full, head to the café car, which is right below the observation deck on the Zephyr. There are tables right up against the large windows, and you'll have almost as good a view as you'd get upstairs.

You have to buy something to sit there, but I thought it was worth it for a change of scenery.

I stopped at Trader Joe's before my trip and came fully loaded with some granola bars, clementines, and pita chips.

My haul kept me from being too hungry when the café car ran out of everything I wanted to eat.

Though there were vegetarian options on the train, if you're vegan or have any special dietary needs or allergies, it's probably best to bring some of your own food.

The railroads that Amtrak trains travel on are owned by private companies that also cater to freight trains. That leads to a lot of delays, as Amtrak waits to let other trains pass.

A longer route like the California Zephyr's can fall behind schedule by hours each time. 

I was lucky that my train to Chicago was only about an hour delayed, so I ended up having two hours to make my connection to the Cardinal. But if you have a tight layover, it's something to keep in mind when purchasing your ticket.

I realized on this journey that the café car had a supply of free hot water. You can bring your own foods (like instant ramen) or tea and just ask them to fill up your cup.

I saw several passengers doing so and wished I'd thought of that. 

There are also some spigots dispensing drinking water throughout the train, but on this journey, most of them didn't work. Even the ones that worked dispensed water very slowly. I wanted to avoid buying bottled water, so I made do.

My seats leaned back and had a leg rest that extended outward, making it much easier to sleep than on a plane.

Even so, a pillow is essential — either a travel pillow that you can use to sleep upright or a standard one that you can lean against the window.

A blanket was great to have, too. My jacket wasn't enough to keep me warm at night when it got really chilly.

Amtrak stops tend to be pretty short — you can't even get off the train for many of them, and others are just 10-minute smoke breaks.

Occasionally, at major stops, though, there's enough time to get out and enjoy the station. If you get off, just listen closely to the announcements from the conductor to know when your train will be leaving.

Union Station in Denver had great restaurants, shops, and bars to enjoy while I waited for my train to depart.

This story was originally published in September 2022 and most recently updated on August 29, 2024.