Today we venture along Alpine Lake located in Marin’s Lake District — where Lake Lagunitas, Bon Tempe and Alpine are gathered together like blue beads strung on Lagunitas Creek.
The hike we take along the lake is refreshingly beautiful with unique habitats that at times will change midstride — from mixed forest to open serpentine, or from Douglas fir to redwood forest. Once we reach the main trail along the lake, there is tree cover most of the way, and generally a cooling breeze coming over the lake.
There are two creeks still feeding the lake that contain perfect places along their banks for relaxing, snacking or lunching in the shade. All in all, this hike is a treat for those who can climb and descend — sometimes steeply — and can negotiate intervals of roots and rocks creating tricky footing.
Summary of the hike: The out and back hike is about 6 miles round trip, but since it is out and back, you can shorten it anywhere, including at lovely Van Wyck Creek (4.2 miles round trip) before we begin our vigorous climb and descent to Swede George Creek, our ultimate destination.
From the Alpine Lake parking lot, we cross the Bon Tempe Dam and walk down the fire road to the shore of Alpine Lake, traversing approximately 1 mile. From there, we begin our true hike on the unsigned Kent Trail through the forest with the lake almost always in view. About 1.1 miles farther, we cross the bridge over Van Wyck Creek, a lovely place to stop, relax and return if you desire.
Continuing for less than a quarter mile, we encounter a post showing the Kent Trail leaving the lake upward, but we continue straight on the indicated Helen Markt Trail and soon climb vigorously up and then down to Swede George Creek, our outbound destination.
No matter the hiking distance you choose, you must be able at intervals to climb, descend and handle tricky footing. The hike is difficult if you hike the entire way, and less so if you turn around at Van Wyck Creek. There are porta potties at the Alpine Lake parking lot. Dogs on leash allowed.
Getting there: Take Bolinas Road out of Fairfax to Sky Oaks. Turn left on Sky Oaks, and drive slowly upward to the top and by a ranger’s admission booth. Some 50 yards farther, pull off to the right and purchase an automobile day pass for $8 from the ticket machine. Drive on the main paved road a short while until you reach a sign indicating Lake Alpine on the crushed rock fire road to the right. Take it and, after a relatively short distance, park in the clearly defined parking area on the left. We start our hike at the gate.
The hike: From the gate we climb the fire road, cross the Bon Tempe Dam, and descend the fire road to the shore of Alpine Lake, where we take the path through the forest on the left. We follow the lakeshore for a while with white lake buoys in sight and soon alternate abruptly between forest and clear serpentine areas.
Serpentine restricts the kinds and limits the height of plant life, and its greenish tint on its rocky presence underfoot and general openness make it apparent along the trail. Soon we leave the serpentine areas and the lake buoys and pumping stations behind. It is now just us, the forest and silence.
Alpine Lake has a storied history that has contributed greatly to Marin’s public lands. In 1915, county residents overwhelmingly passed a bond issue for newly formed Marin Municipal Water District to supply it with funds to construct Alpine Lake and acquire related watershed.
With the funds the Marin Municipal Water District purchased and preserved some 10,000 acres of Mount Tamalpais and its watershed, including the mountain’s entire north side up to and over its three peaks, and containing Lake Lagunitas, Phoenix Lake and the stretch of Lagunitas Creek from East Peak to the bottom of Cataract Gulch. As promised, the Water District opened and maintained its lands for public recreation and still does a great job doing so.
We continue through the still forest and after a good while descend to Van Wyck Creek, still flowing a little and with a bridge over it. Before the bridge we traveled through Douglas fir, but as soon we cross the bridge the forest is almost completely redwoods. Van Wyck Creek is a lovely spot to stretch out and snack, and also a good place from which to return.
Continuing on, we see huckleberry bushes lining the path, and a few which boast ripe huckleberries. Huckleberries are smaller than blueberries, and generally taste tarter and wilder. If you lean into the bushes to pick some, beware of and check for ticks.
We soon come to a post pointing upward for the Kent Trail, but we continue straight ahead on the Helen Markt Trail. We stay along the lake for a short while and then climb steeplyup and then down to Swede George Creek flowing amply into the lake. Cross the bridge and pick a beautiful spot along the creek for well-deserved rest.
After relaxing and enjoying the musical murmur of the creek, we return through the silent forest and look out on the beautiful lake.
See you in two weeks for a great hike rarely taken.
A longtime avid hiker and Marin resident, Jim Holden is the author of two nonfiction books: “It Happened in Marin” and “Adventurous Lives, Daring Acts.” He can be reached at MarinhikingJim@gmail.com.
