Fly-fishing may be the purest sport there is. Tying a fly that emulates an insect in the water to a line, then stealthily casting that fly to fool a fish is high art in a gorgeous setting. It’s also misconstrued as one of the toughest sports to break into. Sure, it can take a lifetime to perfect, but that’s all part of the allure—as are those picturesque rivers and cool duds. For those willing to take the time and energy to learn the basics of fly-fishing, the reward is a sport that will reel you in fast and hook you for life.
As seasoned fly-fishermen say, “The tug is the drug.” Indeed, the first time you land a fish on a fly and feel the weight of it swimming and jumping as you try to reel it in, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. Thankfully, the basics here are pretty straightforward—a process that anyone can execute with a little practice, the right starter gear, and some expertise from top practitioners of the sport.
We consulted with two fly-fishing experts for a five-step guide that will have you casting like a pro in no time. Plus, we’ve lined up the best fly-fishing gear to get you equipped. If you're also game to pick up some other big summer sports, see our guides on how to surf, how to rock climb, and how to mountain bike.
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Shyanne Orvis is a Colorado-based fly-fishing guide, travel host, and children’s book author who serves as the Colorado Wildlife Council’s West Slope Angler Representative. Yep, she’s related to that Orvis family, but has no affiliation with the Orvis company now.
Jack Reis with Fishpond is a former Colorado fly-fishing guide who's hosted countless beginner anglers on the water.
With their help, we’ve put together five essential skills and selected six key pieces of gear that will help every fly-fishing newbie get started.
Before learning to cast or selecting flies, the first step to fly-fishing is determining what fly rod to use—given a variety of different lengths, weights, and materials. First and foremost, you’ll want to consider weight level, which varies from 2- through 9-weight and typically correlates to the size of fish you plan on targeting.
A 2-weight is a lighter, smaller fly rod used for small creeks or rivers. A 9-weight targets larger, heavier ones, and is generally used for lakes or saltwater fishing. For a middle-of-the-road fly rod that will cast well in a variety of conditions and catch a broad swath of fish, go with either a 4- or 5-weight.
The weight of the fly rod often determines the length of the rod as well, generally ranging from around 5 to 14 feet. The shorter a rod is, the easier it typically is to cast. For most beginners, a 9-foot rod is generally a good length to start with.
Lastly, you’ll want to consider the action (or speed) of a fly rod. This relates to how quickly (slow, medium, or fast) it bends when flexed or cast. The rod's material—graphite, fiberglass, and bamboo are common—will also play a role in its action. Graphite is the most popular, and a medium action rod is a good place to start.
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Understanding what reel goes with what rod is key to getting the basics set up for fly-fishing. Because the reel holds the line on your fly rod, it should match the rod’s weight. If you’re using larger flies, you can compensate with a 6-weight reel on a 5-weight rod, or vice versa. Then, once you have the correct size, it’s just a matter of selecting your preferred style of reel—factoring in material, drag, balance, and weight. A solid 5-weight disc drag reel is a good option for a beginner angler to get started.
Once you have the rod and reel, you'll need a fly line, leader, and tippet (short, translucent line attached to the leader to help the fly float more naturally). Since fly-fishing involves a small lightweight fly, as opposed to a heavy lure, anglers use the weight of the line to cast the fly—which should match the weight of the rod and reel. So, a 5-weight rod and reel will use a 5-weight line. Similar to fly rods, the line weight correlates to the strength and size of the fish you plan to catch. For smaller fish, go with line 1 to 5. Larger ones will require line 6 to 12.
To further complicate, there are floating, sinking, and intermediate lines. As the names imply, fly lines can float, sink, or do both depending on what type of fishing you’re doing. For beginners, start with a 5-weight floating line. The leader and tippet are tied onto the fly line to help make it last longer. A tampered leader helps you cast the fly accurately, and the tippet is thin and clear, so fish can’t see it when you float a fly past them. Both should match the style of fishing you’re doing. Tippets run from 1x through 8x, with 8x being the lightest and smallest. Starting with a 3x to 6x tippet is a good way to go. Learning the correct line, leader, and tippet to use is key to successful fly-fishing.
You’re nearly ready to hit the water and catch some fish. But first you’ll need to pick the right flies for the occasion—and there are thousands (upon thousands) to choose from. Both Orvis and Reis recommend a visit to a local fly shop to help you get your bearings.
“Understanding what the fish around you are eating and learning how to set up your rod so you’re presenting that same food source is so important,” says Orvis, whose favorite flies for Colorado rivers include Pat’s rubber legs, soft hackle pheasant tail, red midges, flashback princes, and any RS2 emerger.
“There’s simply no substitute for the expert advice you'll find at your local fly shop,” adds Reis. “The staff make it their business to know which flies to use and when, so a quick visit to select the best half dozen or so flies will start you off on the right foot.”
Here are some basic flies to add to the box to start out:
To practice and master the all-important cast, you don’t even need to tie a fly onto the line or be on the water. Just head to a park with some open grass, spool out some line, and have at it.
“A quick lesson from a guide or a friend will be all you need to get the ball rolling,” says Reis. Absent those options, YouTube is a great resource, and with a quick search, you'll soon identify the key elements of a basic cast. While holding the rod between your thumb and forefingers, stand like you’re going to throw a ball with one foot slightly in front for balance. Think “10 and 2” when casting—as if the rod is pointing to the numbers on a clock.
Bring the rod above your head to the 10 o'clock position (the back cast), then pause before shooting the rod forward to the 2 o'clock position (forward cast). Stop the rod firmly and let the line unfurl in front of you. Practice this motion until it becomes comfortable, then you can let some more line out and start letting it fly. You don't need a river and elusive fish to practice your cast. It can be done comfortably anywhere there's enough space and folks aren't staring at you (unless you're okay with the stares).
“I spent years taking my fly rod to the local park and casting in the grass,” says Orvis. “I’d set up different targets and video myself casting to see how my line was loading and correct any mistakes or bad habits.”
The drift is how the fly floats in the water. You want it to look natural so fish will try to eat it. Any drag in the line or bumps in the current can leave your fly with a bad drift.
When it comes to trout fishing, you'll often hear anglers advise a "dead drift"—referring to letting your flies drift along at the river's speed, without imparting any motion on them with the fly rod. “Generally, trout eat food that gets caught up in the water column and carried downstream, so make sure your flies are mimicking that pace underwater,” Reis advises.
Once you achieve a good drift, fish should try to take or eat the fly. When this happens, you need to be ready to set the hook. This is when you see the dry fly or indicator go underwater, or spot a fish eating the dry fly on the surface of the water.
Now, quickly raise the rod tip upward and downstream to set the hook in the fish’s mouth. Once the fish is on the line, you can keep the tension by reeling it in.
“Entire volumes could be written on setting the hook, but a good rule of thumb for trout fishing is to set the hook downstream at a quartering angle,” says Reis. “Trout typically face upstream, so this upward-downstream sweeping motion is designed to set the hook back and into the corner of the mouth to increase your chances of landing the fish.”
Probably the most fun challenge of all for beginners is knowing where to go—and stand—to have a great time and maximize your catch. We chatted with TroutRoutes founder Zachary Pope about how to locate a good fishing hole. His best bit of advice: “Just get out there.”
“Not every spot is going to be perfect, but nothing can replace the knowledge you gain by spending time on the water—especially for a new angler,” says Pope. “When you’re still learning the basics, it’s best not to overthink it.”
Pope suggests starting with a local spot with good public access to hone your skills before taking that classic fly-fishing trip. “Those gold medal waters won’t do you much good if you can’t cast, mend, and find the right flies to fish once you get there.” Consider various factors such as time of day, water temperature, public land rights, and optimal conditions to catch fish. Pope created the TroutRoutes app to offer new anglers such information.
“We provide comprehensive maps of every trout stream in the country, overlay it with public land access and access points, and even give you guidance on which rivers are most productive,” says Pope, who advises targeting nominal flows (within 10 to 20 percent of median values for that river for that time of year) unless you have a reason not to—like seeking high flows for streamers. Tools like TroutRoutes have advanced river flow charts to help you dial this in.
Once you’ve selected a place and are on the water, take time to observe. Look for rising fish and insect activity, and choose the flies that match the hatch as closely as you can. With a little forethought and planning, you should be able to find a great place to start perfecting your newfound skills—and landing big fish in no time.
Redington Classic Trout Rod is a classic fly rod for beginners, with medium to fast action, smooth cast, and compatibility for either saltwater or freshwater fishing. It comes in four pieces with a rod-tube carrying case.
Orvis’s new die-cast reel design for Clearwater Large-Arbor Reel is ideal for beginners. It offers carbon-to-stainless, stacked disc drag, and will work for left- or right-handed anglers.
Every angler needs a net and some whiskey to celebrate a good catch. Fishpond and Stranahan’s teamed up on this new Rocky Mountain Angler's Bundle, which includes a Fishpond net and a bottle of Stranahan’s Blue Peak Whiskey.
Solid waders are essential when you’re traipsing in a cold, deep river for hours. Orvis Clearwater Waders provide four-layer waterproof breathable nylon fabric and 30K Waterproofing with an 8K Breathability rating. Anatomical neoprene booties with integrated neoprene gravel guards and a webbing belt ensure stability and warmth.
A wading boot needs to be durable yet comfortable from the truck to the water and back. Simms Tributary Wading Boot is a rugged, durable classic at a great price, providing solid traction and a proprietary multidirectional lugged rubber outsole. The fully gusseted tongue makes sure nothing gets in the boots while walking and wading.
Beginners need a place to store all their new flies and gear, and the Fishpond Elkhorn Lumbar Pack provides an organized, ergonomic option. For under $100, anglers get a lightweight, feature-rich, sling-waist pack, with 5 liters of storage space and a water-resistant stash compartment. Designed with highly durable recycled Cyclepond fabric, it’s tough enough to withstand years of fishing trips.