A conflict is brewing between Turkey and Germany – over the birthplace of the humble döner kebab.
Layers upon layers of meat marinated in a blend of spices, herbs and sometimes yoghurt, then placed on a large skewer and cooked on a vertical spit.
A heap of sliced meat is then served on a plate with rice and vegetable, or in a pitta. This is the dish that the two nations are going head to head over.
Its origin is credited at 19th century Turkey. When Turkish migrants relocated to Germany throughout the 1970s and 1980s, they introduced the döner kebab – making it a staple, even more so than the sausage.
Earlier this summer, Turkey filed an application to have the dish protected by the European Union but Germany is having none of it.
This would give the food the same protection as the Italian buffalo mozzarella, the Neapolitan pizza and Spanish jamon serrano.
Turkey’s International Doner Federation (Udofed) wants the definition of the dish to adhere to a strict list of criteria.
In its application, Udofed hails the origins during the Ottoman Empire, citing a recipe found in manuscripts dating from 1546.
But that has sparked an uproar in Germany. The German capital even claims the döner kebab to be a local invention.
‘It happened in Berlin: Legend has it, Kadir Nurman was the first to put the meat in flatbread in 1972 and invented the version of doner that is so beloved in Germany,’ according to the city’s website.
Agriculture minister Cem Ozdemir, whose parents migrated from Turkey, said the food ‘belongs’ to Germany.
He added: ‘Everyone should be allowed to decide for themselves how it is prepared and eaten here. There is no need for any guidelines from Ankara.’
Birol Yagci, a chef at a Turkish restaurant in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district is concerned that the Turkish version only allows beef, lamb or chicken.
He said: ‘Here, it is different. The traditional recipe is made with veal. People eat donors all over the world. Turkey can’t just dictate to others what they should do.’
Germany made an objectionto Turkey’s application to the EU just before the deadline.
If the objection is found to be admissible, the two parties will have a maximum of six months to reach a compromise, it is understood.
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