Several years ago on a backroad near Galveston, I happened upon a roadside barbecue stand. Of course I stopped and ordered a combo plate.As I opened the styrofoam container, I was hit with the smell ofa smoldering fireplace. The brisket and ribs were jet black. It was the smokiest barbecue I’d ever eaten, and at first I couldn’t figureout ifthat was a good thing. The numbing sensation on my lips and tongue that followed certainly wasn’t pleasant, nor was the lingering flavor of wood ash I tasted in my throat the rest of the day. I couldn’t pinpoint what had gone wrong, but after many similar experiences, I now know it was barbecue cooked with dirty smoke.What is dirty smoke? Imagine a Peterbilt truck climbing a steep incline. Now picture the thick, black smoke rolling out of the chromeexhaust pipes as the truck’s engine struggles to push the massive payload forward. If that exhaust looks anything like the smoke coming out of your backyard smoker, then you’re cooking with dirty smoke, w...
