A national coast to coast route for recreation and transport – for walkers, cyclists and (in part) horse riders
A national coast to coast route for recreation and transport – for walkers, cyclists and (in part) horse riders
A national coast to coast route for recreation and transport – for walkers, cyclists and (in part) horse riders
Way back in November, I made the decision that I was going to cycle the Trans Pennine Trail solo from my hometown of Southport, along the West coast, right through to Hornsea, 215 miles away on the East coast.
I had made this decision because originally, I had wanted to walk from the West coast at St Bees Head to the East coast at Robin Hoods Bay, however, due to an ankle operation 6 years prior, I had the sudden reality that I wouldn’t ever be able to do that. Cycling, on the other hand, doesn’t affect my ankle joint and I have cycled since being a boy. Yes, I’m going to do this to prove to myself that I can come out of my comfort zone and achieve a great ambition, even at 56 years old!
Three stop overs were going to be my aim. Firstly, in Manchester Didsbury Travelodge, approximately 72 miles away. Then over the dreaded Pennines to my second stop at a Premier Inn in Doncaster approximately 65 miles away. Last of all, the third and final stop over, at a pub in Hull, called the Whittington & Cat, approximately 74 miles away. Which would then lead me on to a simple and easy 14 miles stretch to end my adventure in Hornsea where my daughter, Pauline, was willing to drive and pick me up for the journey back to Southport.
Booked and paid for, I’m now committed! No turning back. I’m going to do this.
Day 1, Sunday 14th April 2024
Ok, I woke up about 0700 hrs and the weather outside was fairly reasonable, it was dry, about 8 degrees, with a slight wind. Let’s do this. Breakfast done, bike packed up with some emergency tools (just in case!), a change of clothes, waterproofs, cycle map on my phone, sandwiches, a kiss goodbye to the wife, Denise, and I was on my way.
In my head, I was saying, it’s ok, take your time, it doesn’t go dark until 1600 hrs so I’ve got nearly 12 hrs of cycle time.
Southport ECO Centre was the first port of call for a quick selfie and then follow the coastal road. All good, plod on at 12 – 15mph. Signposted well, next feature was Aintree racecourse as I wanted to relay my thanks to @IamMaximus for coming in first and @Ain’tthatashame for coming 6th in the Grand National yesterday.
The Trail is very quiet, a few dog walkers about but not busy at all. I’d timed my ride that way, so that it was the end of the Easter holidays. Up to now, it was just as planned. Next thing I see is an Easyjet plane flying very low and realise I’ve made it to the back of John Lennon Airport in Liverpool.
The River Mersey is next to come into sight and then I spot Runcorn Bridge in the distance and decide it’s about time for a 10 minutes rest, drink and a mid-morning sandwich. I found a park bench at Halebank and made myself comfortable, enjoying the view. A dog walker came and sat beside me and we had a little chat and they asked about my journey.
I told her what I was doing and informed her that the last time I went across Runcorn Bridge, I was driving a train to London and in a few minutes time, I’d be riding underneath that same bridge!
Anyway, I had to move on, otherwise it really would be dark before I got to my resting place. I cross Ditton Brook and then saw I had to go up a zigzag of stairs, which I had to push my bike up. Now, my bike is 28kgs in weight without luggage and it definitely got my heartrate past 100bpm! I then pass the new Mersey Gateway Bridge. What a magnificent structure it is. Selfie time again!
Through Warrington, I continued on towards Altrincam and Sale. I’m watching the clock too as back at home my son, Chris and his partner Chelsea, are holding a baby shower for the arrival of my first grandchild. Unfortunately for me, I had planned this journey before they had planned the baby shower, so I was missing out on this family get together. Oh well, I’ll wait until the arrival of our little granddaughter in May!
I think it was just past 1500 hrs when I realised that I’d cycled 65 miles and I double checked how far left to Didsbury. 7 miles!!! Easy!!
I arrived shortly after 1530hrs, booked in, took my bike up to my room (219) via the lift, ran a hot bath and soaked for the next half hour! End of day one, I felt very pleased with myself, felt ok legs wise and then started to prepare for day 2.
Day 2, Monday 15th April 2024.
Weather doesn’t look too bad!! Off I go again and within 2 miles, I look up at the skies and they are black! The wind is blowing from the NW, so it’s kind of pushing me a little, but then the heavens open. Today is going to a wet one.
Leaving Didsbury, I pass through the centre of Stockport then out through some parklands and wood trails. Pleasant, but very wet and muddy in places. I come to the middle of woodland, no one around and I descend a series of steps whilst still riding my bike, like I did as a teenager. I was loving it! I was wet, muddy, starting to get a bit cold but loving it. Then, my bike made a noise that I knew instantly, meant I was going to have to stop. My chain had somehow doubled over itself and come off the front cog and wedged itself tight against the frame!
Stay calm. Sort it out. Move on. I’m afraid the universe had different plans for me. The chain was really stuck. Panniers came off, bike turned upside down, now I meant business. It’s at this point, I must tell you that I’m short sighted and wear varifocal glasses that were very wet and I couldn’t see what I was doing, so I took them off and placed them on the floor. Bad mistake! After 20 minutes or so of cursing and physical activity of pulling and bending and forcing things, I finally fixed the problem, turned the bike right way up, put the panniers back on and then ………..stood on my glasses! My left lens parted company from the frame one and flicked off into the woods. Oh dear I said and that was the start of the rest of my adventure cycling without glasses!
It’s beginning to get a little harder now. There are definite inclines, the weather is still being unkind to me and the wind seems to be increasing. I plod on up to Hadfield and come across a spectacular sight of Bottoms Reservoir with an overflow going into the River Etherow. I’ve never seen so much water in my life! The wind is relentless but every now and again, the rain stops, the sun comes out and the sights are fabulous. Valehouse Reservoir, Rhodeswood Reservoir, Torside Reservoir and then Woodhead Reservoir, one after the other.
Alongside these reservoirs, there are huge electricity pylons and with the wind blowing, the noise is very eerie as it rushes through the wires. Now, here at Woodhead, the trail zigzags again uphill, fairly steeply.
I was pushing the 28kgs once more and having a few negative thoughts about why I was doing this. Keep going. Back on the bike, I was now riding through mud and standing water, hoping that I’d get through and be ok and not disappear, like the Vicar of Dibley when she jumped in that puddle!
Riding up to Dunford Bridge it was showery again. I was looking on the bright side, at least my glasses weren’t steaming up! Penistone flashed up on my phone screen and I knew then that the hardest bit was behind me. I pass underneath Barnsley, alongside the River Dearne, then the River Don, through RSPB areas, nature reserves and parks.
Deep down, I’m really enjoying this ride. However, I am definitely soaked to the skin and when I stop for a breather, I get cold quite quickly. So I push on and stay warm. Not far now to my 2nd stopover in Doncaster. I arrive there a little later today, it was about 1630hrs and I could feel the effects of the ride this time. Run that hot bath, soak, eat, drink and rest.
Day 3, Tuesday 16th April 2024
The rain has stopped, thankfully, but it’s still cold and the wind is blowing from the North and you guessed it, today I’m cycling North to Selby first and then East to Hull.
My boots are still wet from yesterday’s ride but I was prepared for that. Waterproof socks a must and highly recommended. I cycle through some lovely villages that were really quiet. I’ve hardly encountered any traffic on the roads and I do feel very safe. I pass disused airfields, I cycle alongside a spectacular canal called New Junction canal and it is so wide. Wow.
Next, I come across a car in a spot of trouble. Two gentlemen had attempted to drive onto a grassy area, presumably to fish the canal, but unbeknown to them, the ground was extremely boggy and soft and they had got stuck in the mud.
Time for my good deed of the day. I helped to rock the car back and forward until finally, with one big push, they were out of the mud and retreating to more firmer ground. Back on the bike and carry on. Selby is now getting close but I’m feeling tiredness creeping into my legs. It’s time for a break soon.
I hit Selby and head straight to Selby Abbey. What a magnificent looking structure it is. Well worth a visit. I venture a little further into the town and find a Greggs. A large black coffee to warm me up and an infamous sausage roll, goes down a treat. 20 minutes and then I know I’ll be heading East to Hull. The weather, apart from the wind, is holding up. I may stay dry today. I venture through some more quaint villages and get to Blacktoft. Get the camera out! Beautiful area.
I then meet the River Humber. Wow, I had no idea on how big that river is. Its huge. Then, of course, you see the Humber Bridge. It’s massive and it was, up until 26 years ago, the longest single-span suspension bridge in the world! It is still, however, the longest that can be crossed on cycle or foot. Not many people know that.
I continue my ride and go underneath the bridge, taking plenty of photos on the way. Half an hour later and with 74 miles more under my belt, I arrive at my last resting point on my journey, The Whittington & Cat pub. However, check in isn’t until 1700hrs and it’s only 1610hrs. Hmmmm. Guess what was next door? Another Greggs!! Time for another coffee. I’m only 14 miles away now from my destination of Hornsea but it will have to wait until tomorrow.
My phone rings and it’s my daughter, Pauline, asking where I was. She was parked right outside Greggs. I’d been caught red handed! It was lovely to see her and I was so grateful for her driving all this way to pick me up and drive me safely back home.
We checked into the pub at 1700 hrs, had several pints of Guinness, I ate a mixed grill and she had a piping hot lasagne with a side of chips. Then it was an early night ready for an early start next morning.
Day 4, Wednesday 17th April 2024
I was awake at just before 0600 hrs and the sun was shining and there was blue skies. What a day to finish this epic journey. Hot cup of tea while packing my stuff away and I left just after 0630hrs.
Pauline would leave a little later and meet me in Hornsea. I decided to go via the marina and take in the boats there. Saw the Hull Minster and various other sights in the Old Town. Would be nice to come back sometime and spend a few days exploring the area.
I’m soon back on the Trail and counting down the miles. Nobody was around, it was just me and my thoughts of the last 3 days and what I was achieving. I passed through lots of countryside on a good Trail, away from cars.
It was only 3 degrees and my hands were freezing cold. I had to keep stopping to thaw out so I could operate my gears and brakes properly. The mileage was now down to single figures. In another 20 minutes I’ll have completed my adventure. At 1 mile away from my destination, I stop and text my family that I’m about to finish and I receive so much love from them saying how proud they were of me. I’m quite emotional for some strange reason. Its downhill, I come out of a right hand bend and I can see the finish point 200 yards away. Pauline is there, videoing me as I finish and she is waving 2 of the smallest, black and white chequered flags I’ve ever seen in my life but it means the world to me. I’ve done it. 215 miles of Trans Pennine Trail!
Mike Whalley
See our interactive mapping for detailed route alignment and route diversions.
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