Over-the-knee boots, kitten heels and more.
If there’s a lesson the Milan Fashion Week imparted for fall 2024, it’s that shoes are no longer an accessory to an outfit, but an integral part of it. Here are four key trends that ruled the runways in Milan.
As monochromatic looks dominated the catwalks, footwear was tasked to add consistency and heighten the visual impact of garments. Cue the vibrant color therapy offered by Lucie and Luke Meier at Jil Sander and the subtler take Maximilian Davis paraded for the Ferragamo fall 2024 collection.
The winners in this arena were over-the-knee boots, which took the spotlight this season, either in their flat version displayed by Versace and Bally, or high-heeled one seen at Fendi or Diesel. Seen as a second-skin go-to style, boots offered a valid solution as the pant-less trend still gained heat on the runway, as best exemplified by Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore women’s collection at Gucci.
As a counterpoint to the sleek trend, brands in Milan also got crafty and relied on footwear to match the furry and hairy textures included in their collections, which telegraphed designers’ quest for comfort and tactile reassurance as a reaction to the global news. Highlights ranged from the fringed styles Matteo Tamburini included in his debut collection at Tod’s to the show-stopping feathery pumps seen at Ferragamo.
The third big trend of the season might look familiar by now but found new vigor courtesy of the ’50s revival and resurge of the ladylike style in Milan, which goes hand-in-hand with the timing of Ryan Murphy’s series “Feud: Capote vs. The Swans.” Kitten heels popped on runways a few seasons ago, peaked in last September and still went strong here, also thanks to Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who included a pointy-toed version in charming pastel colors in the Prada fall 2024 collection they co-designed.
As the fashion pack moves to Paris, the trend promises to gain further traction in the French capital, especially at local houses that have a long-standing tradition in the matter, like Roger Vivier.
