American Climbs the World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
On January 24 American Kevin Lindlau made the second ascent of Aletheia (D16) in the Italian Dolomites. It is a landmark moment for both Lindlau and the sport of dry tooling, as it is the first time a D16 has been repeated and the grade confirmed.
Aletheia is a gigantic single pitch. Its first ascensionist, Matteo Pilon, described the line as more than 60 meters long with 40 quickdraws and over 300 figure 4s. Lindlau first heard of Aletheia two years ago while working his long-term project A Line Above the Sky (D15), also in the Italian Dolomites. “I was instantly in awe,” Lindlau wrote. “The route was massive, and unfathomable to even think of climbing at the time. I left with my tail between my legs, never guessing that I would one day dedicate so much time of my life to working on this immense line.”
Lindlau returned to Italy in fall 2023 to see if his perspective had changed. The moves were more massive than he could have imagined, but the position and quality of climbing intrigued him. It’s not every day one gets to climb a sustained 65-meter roof.
He spent five miserably wet weeks projecting Aletheia, vainly making redpoint attempts while the route seeped. “With only days left of the trip, I started to give the route proper send goes,” he said, “but I fell short of the anchor by only six moves on my last day of the trip. My pinkies had the skin peeled away from the effort and it took weeks before they had healed enough to begin training again.”
Back home in Bozeman, Montana, Aletheia controlled Lindlau’s every waking moment. “I completely dedicated myself and my training to sending the route,” he said. “At night before bed, I would rehearse the entire route, visualizing myself clipping the chains upon my return.”
After months of waiting and training Lindlau returned to Italy with better fitness and weather. He sent Aletheia on just the second day of his trip.
“This ascent and resulting grade confirmation changes the future of dry tooling and has some historical significance,” Lindlau said. Aletheia is the first time a D16 has been confirmed by way of a second ascent, creating a new benchmark in the sport of dry tooling. Lindlau also notes, proudly, that he is the first American to climb the grade.
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