I was in the South the first time a fellow climber told me that they didn’t want to learn how to use a Petzl GriGri. Without ever using the device, several people were quick to write it off, and I started to wonder why. When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device.) So, I started asking questions. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Or were there things the ATC could do that the GriGri couldn’t? I chatted with a few industry experts to better understand the strengths and weaknesses of each product.
Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the belayer complacent. And, to be clear, the GriGri is also not intended to be a hands-free device.
Jason Antin, a Colorado-based AMGA Rock and Alpine guide, stated that in a teaching environment, he starts with the ATC: “For beginners [the ATC] gives them a very good foundation for how to belay. Once they’ve got the fundamental level, I think there’s no reason why you shouldn’t integrate some kind of assisted braking device.” Once the belayer has mastered the basics of belaying, learning how to use a device that locks like the GriGri can offer additional protection for the climber, and make projecting a route easier for the belayer.
Karsten Delap, a North Carolina-based IFMGA Mountain Guide and professional climber, states that, for him, the number one factor is application. If cost is a factor, he’ll teach the ATC first. If it’s someone who’s preparing to climb the Grand Teton, he’ll grab the ATC. But for standard climbers, “We’ll talk about the GriGri on the first day, and move to the ATC for rappelling. Then when we’re getting weight conscious, we’ll think about whether the GriGri is something we need or not. Everything on our harness is something we think about before we go into the mountains.”
The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment.
Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes down faster. And you’re putting a lot more stress on a shorter amount of rope:
“I am doing a lot of rappelling on a GriGri…that’s why I’ve coreshot so many ropes.” He added, “There are caveats to rappelling with a GriGri. The GriGri is going to heat up more than the ATC generally.”
The GriGri can also put a lot more weight on the rope: “For the general public…what they want to do is a [single rope] rappel, which puts four times the amount of weight on half as much rope,” said Delap. But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent.
Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue.”
Antin noted that there are additional high-stress areas in which the GriGri excels: “The GriGri offers faster change of modalities. For example, if you want to lower your climber very quickly, it’s very quick. The ATC takes a secondary set of skills to lower someone [while belaying] from a long distance from above.” Both devices are capable of accommodating high-risk situations, but the GriGri is more likely to switch between uses at a faster rate, which can be essential in extreme or life-or-death situations.
Historically, many die-hard ATC users pointed to the weight savings that the device provides. GriGris are known for their bulk, while ATCs provide a lightweight, affordable alternative. But over the years, manufacturers have substantially cut down on the weight of the GriGri. The GriGri+ weighs 7 ounces (198g), while most ATC guides weigh about 2.5 ounces (71g). But in order to provide the assisted-braking feature that makes the ATC competitive with the GriGri, users must carry two carabiners. One could argue that they’d be carrying the carabiners anyways, in which case the ATC would be quite a bit lighter. But if they carry two extra carabiners for the ATC, the weight ends up being about the same as the GriGri+.
Another significant debate among climbers revolves around the belay device’s ability to deliver a soft catch. Those who are extra concerned about this issue often look to the ATC to operate with a little bit more give. Antin weighed in: “The GriGri bites the rope as soon as it reaches that velocity point. The only play in the rope is based on the belayer. They may allow the weight to pull them off the ground a little bit…A softer catch can be achieved with an ATC.” This could also mean that, during pitches with poor protection, the ATC is slightly less likely to cause gear failure.
One of the most common arguments that anti-GriGri climbers make is that the device “fails.” But most of the existing reports about failing GriGris point to improper use rather than a true device failure.
When asked if he knows of any incidents where active GriGri devices failed, Delap was adamant: “[GriGris] don’t fail.…It’s human error.” Threading the GriGri backwards could cause a “failure,” but this can easily be avoided by testing the device beforehand. Improper use of the cam—like holding the lever all the way open—might also present a dangerous situation. In some cases, climbers view the GriGri as an auto-locking device as opposed to an assisted-braking device, which might cause the belayer to go hands free. But these issues cannot be considered device failure.
However, a dilemma that climbers occasionally face while using the GriGri is ice build up in winter environments. Sometimes ice will melt, build up inside the GriGri, and then re-freeze, which can make it difficult to manage. The ATC isn’t immune to this issue, but tube-style devices tend to be easier to operate when build up does occur. Delap notes: “One way to fix the ice problem is the Freino Carabiner (the $45 carabiner that keeps the GriGri in a position that’s better loaded). You clip the rope into it so it starts to de-sheath the ice off of the rope.” He added that he often uses the Munter Hitch when conditions are so bad that they cause internal device build up.
When it comes to cost, the ATC has a leg up on the GriGri. Climbers can usually find an ATC Guide for about $30, while the GriGri costs $100 to $140. When asked if Delap thinks that cost is a factor in belay device preference, he stated: “Yeah. The cost is a thing. We see it all the time. What did you buy first? I bought an ATC first because the GriGri was expensive and it looked scary. So, I do agree that anything that’s cheaper, especially by five times, is going to be more popular.”
Both the GriGri and the ATC have strengths and weaknesses, and an experienced climber should be able to use them nearly interchangeably. Some climbers prefer the ATC because the GriGri favors right-handed belayers. Others can’t get over the idea of rappelling with a GriGri. But when it comes down to convenience and redundancy, the GriGri seems to take the cake. Antin stated: “I want a GriGri because I want the weight on my harness instead of my hand.” It’s overall a less energy-intensive device that allows you to belay someone who’s a lot heavier without taxing yourself.
Delap noted that climbing gear is constantly changing, and that the device he uses is situationally dependent: “Application is everything. Terrain is everything. Understanding the device you’re using and the positives and negatives of that [matters]. And being open minded to new things that come out is important.”
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