Has there been a moment in fashion more highly anticipated than Phoebe Philo’s return to the industry? Maybe the introduction of pants as everyday wear into women’s closets, but beyond that, I’m unsure.
The designer announced, via a new eponymous Instagram handle, that her inaugural collection, backed by LVMH, will be available through a currently dormant website in September of this year, with registration opening in July. Since announcing her return in June 2021, fashion lovers have been ravenous for insider gossip and musing among one another as to when Philo might actually bless them with tangible clothing. Now, she’s finally answered their prayers.
Philo, known for her minimalist and effortless approach to clothing, revived Celine (back when it was Céline) and brought the brand into the modern era during her tenure from 2008 to 2017. Céline became covetable, both through singular “It” items like the Luggage Tote and Triomphe Bag and as its own aesthetic. There are still digital shrines erected for her time helming the label and vintage sales taking place both online and during Paris Fashion Week for items from Philo’s collections. She was hailed for creating a visual code for how women actually want to dress, when divorced from the male gaze. While the anticipation for Philo’s brand has been building, rightful critique of the designer has resurfaced. In 2013, legendary models Bethann Hardison and Iman both accused Philo of racism on the runway.
“She’s a cool girl. But Celine has never had a colored person showing in their collection. Ever,” Hardison told the Standard. “And yet they have the best accessories; every Black woman who has money buys her accessories.”
In that same article, Iman, on the other hand, said she refuses to support the designer or the brand: “I walk the walk. I can get another It bag. I have my wallet,” she said. “I make a conscious decision not to buy that stuff.”
In a 2022 appearance on “Sway’s Universe” that has recently resurfaced, Iman once again noted Philo’s alleged resistance to using models of color, referencing a conversation between the two in which Iman said the designer asked her if she was going to be “forced to use Black models.” For the supermodel and advocate, the question itself was enough for her to boycott the designer entirely. “That’s why I have never bought a Celine bag,” Iman said. “She has a right to her runway, and I have a right to my pocketbook.”
Despite these claims, to which Philo has yet to respond, devotees who are either in the dark about the allegations against the designer or have chosen to turn a blind eye have been flocking to the unlaunched label in droves. Philo’s Instagram account, which now has over 275,000 followers, posted a singular infographic on Febuary 19 to comments from fashion editors like “screaming shaking crying throwing up.” One comment from singer Lily Allen said, “Not buying anything till Sept.” The post has since been taken down, but two things are clear: Philo’s disciples are waiting eagerly and — to be quite honest — rabidly for her new collection, and many will be watching to see if the designer will implement changes to reflect a more diverse and inclusive clientele.
