Whenever the mercury climbs too high for comfort in the sun, we turn to Samuel P. Taylor State Park for our outdoor adventures. The redwoods towering over the park’s abundant picnic tables and Lagunitas Creek burbling through make it the perfect place for hot days.
Picnics and camping aren’t all the park has to offer. The Cross Marin Trail, which as its name implies crosses some of Marin, runs through Samuel P. Taylor. On sweltering days, the shadier leg of this trail is a perfect and mellow route alongside Lagunitas Creek east toward Marin’s famed Inkwells, our turnaround point.
Samuel P. Taylor park bears the name of the man who owned the land in the mid-19th century. He ran a paper mill, and once the now-vanished North Pacific Coast Railroad was in place, he developed Camp Taylor Resort. The hotel he built was sited in a space now ringed by the park’s picnic tables. Taylor’s resort was one of the first recreational camping areas in California.
Starting the trail from the park means crossing three bridges on the two or so miles from start to turnaround, unless you count the occasional elevated wooden platform meant to carry travelers across streams during the rainy season. The first bridge is near the picnic area of Samuel P. Taylor. It’s always worth a peek over the edge to spy any passing fish. The second bridge has a warning for passers-by to avoid leaning on its railings, as they are unstable. The third bridge crosses Inkwells, making an important connection of this trail segment to create a continuous route with other trails.
Almost 100% of this path is shaded — the only sunny bit is just as it approaches Inkwells. It is wide and flat, a remnant of its origins as a railroad roadbed. This portion of it is not paved, and during the rainy season — please, let there be a good rainy season this year! — it can be muddy. That’s not a concern during summer and early fall when trail users can enjoy its cool but dry environs, navigable by strollers, small children and large groups (but please keep left if you’re not the only ones on the trail).
Dogs are allowed on the Cross Marin Trail, but toward the Inkwells’ end of the path, a confusing sign tells visitors that dogs are not allowed past that point. The trail forks at the sign, and it’s unclear whether the warning references both forks or only one. The park brochure says that dogs are allowed on the Cross Marin Trail, so the sign likely references the trail that forks left from the main path.
In addition to dogs, the trail allows bike use, so keep an ear and eye out for two-wheeled users.
Continuing on the main path eventually takes users to the bridge that crosses over Inkwells. The day we were there, plenty of young people were swimming and sunning, enjoying the cold water and warm rocks.
The bridge over Inkwells is named after Marie Dhority, who with her husband, Louis, gave the OK for public access through their property and added another link to the ever-growing Bay Area Ridge Trail. Just across Sir Francis Drake from here is the Leo T. Cronin Fish Viewing Area, offering a view on salmon spawning during the winter.
• Getting there: To start on the Samuel P. Taylor end, take Sir Francis Drake westbound from Highway 101 until you see the sign for the park entrance. There is a $8 entry fee for the park, or you can purchase an annual park pass. From the picnic parking area, cross the bridge that spans Lagunitas Creek and then take a left. You’ll pass the Redwood Grove picnic area on your left and enter the path just across the group picnic parking lot. This trail is a there-and-back, with a turnaround at Inkwells, for a total just shy of five miles round trip, based on trail maps.
Emily Willingham is a Marin science journalist, book author and biologist. You can find her on Twitter @ejwillingham.
