From every angle, Concord’s Longport Fish Company has great coastal energy.
It is named for the Jersey Shore borough where chef-owner Nicholas diArenzo spent his summers as a kid feasting on crab. It is located in the spot formerly housing EMC Seafood & Raw Bar, a venerable fish house that closed during the pandemic, though the San Jose location remains open. And, despite a bland exterior, its dining room is awash in bright, ocean-blue accents.
But, most importantly, the seafood restaurant at 2015 Diamond Blvd. in The Veranda, which gets local and sustainable seafood delivered six days a week, is diArenzo’s opportunity to make his mark on Bay Area dining. He spent 20 years working his way up in San Francisco restaurants before opening two fine dining establishments, Market Tavern and Prime Table, in Stockton, where where he lives with his family.
Entrees like a miso roasted black cod and a spring halibut with asparagus puree show diArenzo’s flair for flavor and technique, not to mention pretty food. Brunch service, which launched this month, offers a tempting poached lobster benedict and French toast made from a brown sugar and vanilla babka baked by Fire Swamp Provisions in Sebastopol. Did we mention the smoked salmon and bagel towers? Here’s our take from a recent Sunday night dinner.
VIBE: Coastal. Alley & Vine is bathed in dreamy cerulean blue, down to the leather stools, water glasses and dramatic, semi-circle banquette, which is the best table in the house. There’s also an open kitchen and a large bar with sand-colored pendant lights and plenty of seating.
FOOD: Large menus generally make me nervous, but Longport’s is just big enough — with raw bar, salads, soups, sandwiches and wood-fired entrees — to ensure something for everyone. If you’re bringing a group, opt for a seafood tower, like The Tugboat ($80), which comes with oysters, clams, ceviche, one-half Maine lobster and kombu mignonette. It’s a solid appetizer for 2-4 people.
Unique starters include Spicy Salmon Tartare & Crispy Rice Cakes ($12) and Griddled Corn Bread with Calabrian Chile-Maple Butter ($12), while soups and salads are on the classic side. There’s New England Clam Chowder ($6 cup; $10 bowl) and LFC Louie Salad with choice of Oregon bay shrimp or Dungeness crab ($15 small, $32 large).
For that Roasted Miso Black Cod ($38), diArenzo marinates the cod for three days in miso, mirin, sake and sugar. Its accompanying crispy potato terrine is labor intensive: Potatoes are sliced super thin, layered in butter, and pressed overnight before hitting the fryer. Both dishes frequently sell out.
Halibut, a special on our visit, came with colossal asparagus and shaved Brussels sprouts from Stockton’s Zuckerman Family Farms. The dish is finished in a scrumptious green garlic and bacon vinaigrette. Burgers and sandwiches round out the offerings. Even the kids menu is solid. Crunchy, panko-crusted chicken tenders are made from Mary’s chicken, which is brined.
DRINK: A selection of 10 craft cocktails ($14 each) made with local spirits, like Sebastopol’s Spirit Works Vodka and Alameda’s St. George Spirits Terroir Gin. There are also 11 craft beers on draft, most from Northern California, and 21 wines by the glass starting at $12. The bottle list includes a mix from California, France, Italy and beyond, with most offerings in the $45-$68 range.
DON’T MISS: Eye-catching desserts, like a passionfruit tart with Biscoff crumble and a giant, crispy meringue seashell ($12) and an organic black tea-infused panna cotta with syrup boba pearls and black sesame tuile ($12).
DETAILS: Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Friday, and from 10 a.m. Saturday-Sunday, at 2015 Diamond Blvd., Suite 100, Concord; www.longportfc.com
