Selby’s retro-glam supper club sets July 23 opening in Atherton

For decades, this stretch of El Camino Real was the Peninsula’s toniest destination for fine dining.

The French-Continental restaurant Chantilly served steaks and veal napped in rich sauces, baked Alaska and dessert souffles in its stately dining rooms. A block away, sweetbreads, quail and apple tarts reigned at four-star John Bentley’s.

Then Chantilly closed in 2017. A year later, chef Bentley decided to retire, leaving a culinary void on the Atherton/Redwood City border.

On Tuesday, July 23, continental cuisine — a modern version — will return, courtesy of the Bacchus Management Group. The restaurateurs, who own the Michelin-starred Village Pub in Woodside along with Spruce and the Saratoga in San Francisco, have re-imagined the historic Chantilly building as a glamorous Hollywood-style supper house, circa the 1930s, 1940s.

They’ve named it Selby’s after the location at the corner of Selby Lane and El Camino.

“This is a very special location in a special area and needs a special restaurant,” Tim Stannard, founding partner of Bacchus, said when announcing the project. “We feel some obligation to continue the tradition of this space.”

When the transformation is unveiled next week, diners will find a luxurious space and menu to match. Bacchus and interior designer Stephen Brady have blended traditional and contemporary touches, from the dining room to the bar/lounge to the addition of a private card room, with modernist chandeliers by artist Magnus Schevene and 175 original works of art.

Executive chef Mark Sullivan’s inaugural menu of updated classics features Dry-Aged Roast Crown of Duck for Two with Empress plum and 25-year-old balsamic vinegar; Ratatouille Pithivier with heirloom tomatoes, zucchini and sweet peppers; Grilled Lobster with heirloom tomatoes and a French sauce vierge; and prime dry-aged steaks from California’s renowned Flannery Beef.

Executive pastry chef Janina O’Leary also crosses the decades with desserts ranging from a Peach Melba with raspberry sauce to a Chocolate Midnight Cake with salted caramel and fudge sauce.

On the libations side, a martini trolley will make the rounds in the restaurant, and an extensive list of global wines will be offered. The inaugural wine list numbers 4,000, with room in the cellar to accommodate up to 20,000 bottles.

Details: Selby’s will serve dinner nightly from 5 to 10 p.m. at 3001 El Camino Real. Reservations: 650-546-7700; www.selbysrestaurant.com.