Working in menswear, I’ve picked up on the little distinctions between classic garments: jacket (blazer) vs. jacket (outerwear), button-downs vs. button-ups, turtlenecks vs. mocknecks vs. rollnecks. Some terms have clear-cut definitions, and others live in the gray zone. Like chinos vs. khakis. They're often tossed around interchangeably, and while there’s much overlap, important details separate these two pant types—which can determine why you may want to wear one over the other. Now, we’re not judging if you call chinos khakis or vice versa. But we’re fans of getting into the nitty-gritty of what we wear. So let’s break it down.
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Khakis and chinos have military origins, born of necessity. Khakis go back to the mid-1800s, when British soldiers in India dyed their cotton trousers a dusty brown—khaki, from the Hindi word for dust—to blend into the landscape. Durable and breathable, they became a British Army standard.
Later, the similar chinos found their war into American military usage during the Spanish-American War. U.S. soldiers stationed in the Philippines adopted "Pantalones Chinos," or "Chinese Pants," named for the Chinese cotton used to make them. These pants were slimmer than other uniforms, reflecting efforts to conserve fabric. By the early 20th century, both styles found their way into civilian wear and, eventually, into your closet. Today's best khakis retain their rugged, utilitarian charm, and chinos offer a sleeker, more tailored look.
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When someone mentions chinos, fashion guys will tell you they're referring to the dressier side of cotton pants. Chinos are generally slimmer, polished, and tailored. Mention khakis, though, and the tone shifts toward more robust twill cotton, with casual, heritage vibes (think King of Cool Steve McQueen). Some pants blur the lines, and referring to one as the other is perfectly okay. But the formality factor is the primary separator here.
Style expert Seth Howard (Harper’s Bazaar, Nordstrom, Nautica) sums it up well. “When I hear ‘chinos,’ I think of a lightweight, tightly woven cotton fabric with a polished, dressier feel," he says. "They’re versatile, often cut with a modern, slim silhouette, and come in a spectrum of colors—navy, olive, and even burgundy. ‘Khakis,’ on the other hand, evoke a thicker, rugged twill fabric with heritage and utilitarian feel. They're inherently casual, often looser in fit, and my mind immediately associates them with a classic tan or sandy hue.”
To simplify: Chinos, with their tailored silhouette and lighter fabric, dress up; khakis, with their more robust cotton, looser silhouette, and utilitarian feel, dress down.
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Khakis and chinos share a major common denominator: cotton. The fabric is the foundation of both, but the differences come down to the textile feel. Heritage-inspired khakis are typically crafted from robust twill cotton—structured, durable, and ready for action. Think Indiana Jones or McQueen on his motorbike—neither were rocking chinos, folks. Those were khakis.
Conversely, Chinos use a softer, lighter cotton weave, often with a subtle sheen that makes for more tailored, polished looks. Some modern chinos might include a touch of stretch, like spandex or elastane, for added comfort and flexibility. Whether it’s the rugged durability of khakis or the smooth, lightweight feel of chinos, cotton remains the star—breathable and endlessly versatile. To me, rugged twill cotton defines great everyday khakis, while sleeker, stretch cotton elevates chinos to today’s standards.
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Khakis generally benefit from a bit of room to breathe—especially with trends moving toward relaxed and roomier fits. They work well in straight-leg or wide-leg silhouettes. Or, and this is where things get fun: with more volume at the waist and thighs, often with pleats, tapering slightly through the knee and calf.
A straight-leg cut is timeless, but a wide-leg style evokes an older time and leans into the heritage charm, ideal for laid-back, stylish weekends. Chinos, however, should fit closer to suit trousers and generally have a straight-leg or tailored silhouette for a sleeker appearance. Chinos easily fit smart casual, business casual, and dressier occasions. Remember, though, that ultimately the best fit comes down to your preferences and body type.
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You may have noticed that pleats have made a big comeback in recent years among stylish guys, and for good reason. These are not the pleats of a '90s sitcom dad; today’s pleats imbue elegance and comfort, align with more voluminous pants, and add a cool visual detail. For khakis, pleats are a natural fit.
“Pleats complement khakis because their utilitarian heritage thrives on practicality and ease of movement," Howard says. "They provide comfort, particularly in roomier fits, making them a natural match for the casual, relaxed aesthetic of khakis.”
On chinos, however, pleats can feel discordant. Howard explains: “Chinos are often designed to be sleek and streamlined, aiming for a more tailored, modern vibe. Pleats can disrupt that clean line, making them appear fussy or dated in a way that contradicts the chino’s intended refinement.”
In short, pleats and khakis (can) go hand in hand (on the right guy), but chinos keep things smooth and simple.
While it can seem nitpicky, the types of pockets and minor details do make a difference—and yes, people will notice, if only unconsciously. Khakis often feature slanted side pockets and back patch pockets—pockets sewn directly onto the exterior, lending a more casual vibe—or welt pockets. Some styles have flaps; others incorporate a coin pocket or waist tabs for a traditional touch.
Chinos, by contrast, stick to a cleaner design. Think back welt pockets—a more formal style with just a narrow slit visible on the surface, reinforced by a fabric strip (the welt) and secured with a button. No flaps, no embellishments. Their refined nature calls for minimal fastenings, like a button-and-zipper closure. For both styles, steer clear of five-pocket designs—that's best left for jeans. Only four need apply here.
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Chinos vs. khakis vs. slacks... yes, it gets confusing. "Slacks" typically refer to tailored pants with a dressier vibe and a bit of comfort. The term goes back to the old Saxon word "slak," meaning "loose," originally describing relaxed trousers—a departure from the slim-fitting styles of the time.
When someone refers to slacks, they're talking about wool or wool-blend dressier trousers. Picture wool flannel trousers: not quite formal suit pants, but more polished than chinos or khakis. Slacks hark back to an era when men wore suiting daily, evoking images of dapper gents strolling city streets. These days, slacks capture a quintessentially put-together vibe: tailored pants that combine sophistication with comfort in equal measure.
Khakis are effortlessly cool, both in style and function. With their military-inspired sturdiness, they can handle everyday wear and tear. The best khakis retain some element of that armed forces DNA while still feeling contemporary and wearable. I love the idea of rocking great khakis with a simple crewneck sweater or sweatshirt. Pair them with a leather or suede jacket, or throw them on with a button-down shirt and denim jacket for a more polished look.
Khakis don't work for the dressiest occasions, but they work well in smart casual, some business casual, and almost any casual look. "Khakis shine in casual weekend settings—think a backyard barbecue, a stroll in the park, or casual Friday at the office," Howard says. He suggests a go-to style combo: "Pair classic tan khakis with a soft crewneck sweatshirt and leather sneakers for a relaxed yet put-together look. Or, for added versatility, throw on a bright white Oxford cloth shirt and a well-worn denim jacket."
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Chinos work best for outfits that call for a bit more formality—or when you just want to flex sleekness around friends. They can be dressed up with a blazer and button-up shirt or dressed down with a casual button-down (hello, Oxford) and an unstructured jacket. "Dressier chinos excel in semi-formal or business casual scenarios—client meetings, dinner dates, or even a daytime wedding," Howard notes.
But be mindful of the materials you choose—overly shiny synthetics can throw off the vibe that chinos inherently bring and make them feel, well, less cool. You want to avoid a country club feel, though if you're actually golfing, performance chinos—often with added stretch—work fine.
A tip from Howard: "Opt for slim-fit navy chinos and pair them with a soft button-down flannel and a fine cashmere sweater. Finish the look with a pair of suede loafers or clean leather derbies. For cooler evenings, layer with an unstructured blazer or a lightweight trench coat."
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In addition to writing for Men's Journal, I've covered topics spanning menswear, fragrances, watches, grooming, and styling for InsideHook, Robb Report, GQ, Esquire, and Men's Health. I served as the market editor at Esquire for several years, scouring the industry for the best garments and goods that were not only worth the investment but also made for compelling stories and good advice for our readers. I also conceptualized and wrote many fragrance stories for Esquire and most of the grooming pages.
I always try to add a timeless element to whatever I've written, especially when it comes to classic garments like chinos and khakis, because while trends can be interesting, my heart is drawn to more perennial guidance and themes. My obsessive-compulsive tendencies are both a blessing and a curse, and while I often delve into researching items to the point of exhaustion, it's this approach that positions me as a go-to person for advice. Whether it's about coats, colognes, or turntable needles, people recognize that I've done the legwork. I enjoy inspiring others to seek out their unique interests in things that might improve their lives.
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